You can read more about this monstrous development later in today’s blog – and we only have until the end of the day tomorrow to object …
First of all, however, to lift your spirits, the delights of the Cartier exhibition!
Charting the rise of Cartier from its inception in 1847 to becoming ‘the jeweller of kings and king of jewellers’, the exhibition looks at the evolution of the house’s legacy in art, design and craftsmanship since the turn of the 20th century, and detail how the three grandsons of founder Louis-François set out to create the first globally recognised jewellery house.
Nothing quite prepared me for the experience of seeing these Cartier creations ‘in real life’ so to speak rather than in photographs. Mind-blowing craftsmanship combined with extraordinary wealth, the exhibition not only displays these pieces brilliantly, it also in many cases names the clients who commissioned them (but doesn’t snitch on them as to what they paid!).
The exhibits are cleverly lit in rooms with subdued lighting so you can see them in all their glory. This, unfortunately, makes photography difficult so the blog will be a combination of images that I took along with some from other sources.
These words ring down the decades, one of the most famous speeches in recent British history. In it King Edward VIII (soon to be known as the Duke of Windsor) declared:
‘I have found it impossible to carry the heavy burden of responsibility and to discharge my duties as king as I would wish to do without the help and support of the woman I love.‘
Both Edward and Mrs Simpson had a passion for jewellery and in 1940 he had Cartier create for her The Flamingo Brooch …
The bird is meticulously fashioned from diamonds, rubies, and sapphires, ‘capturing its graceful elegance’.
Strangely there are not all that many images online of her wearing it.
A Panthère clip brooch sold to the Duke of Windsor in 1949, presumably a gift for Wallis (Photography: Nils Herrmann for Cartier Collection) …
The Patalia necklace, commissioned by the Maharaja Bhupinder Singh of Patiala in 1928 …
In 1968, the extravagant Mexican actress María Félix ordered a snake necklace from Cartier. The ingenuity of the design makes it a unique piece in the history of jewellery. Thousands of hours of work and great expertise were put into making this 57-centimetre long reptile, with an entirely articulated structure paved with 2,473 diamonds …
A better image from a Cartier magazine …
Two more exhibits where, unfortunately, I forgot to make a note of the description …
Crash wristwatch, Cartier London, 1967. (Photography: Vincent Wulveryck for Cartier Collection). Shades of Salvador Dalí …
The Tutti Frutti bandeau, made in 1928 for Lady Mountbatten, is on long-term loan to the V&A (Photo: Victoria and Albert Museum, London) …
Not surprisingly, tiaras feature strongly, and this is just a small selection.
Tiara, Cartier Paris, 1908. Photography: Marian Gérard for Cartier Collection …
The Manchester Tiara was made by Cartier, Paris, in 1903 to the order of Consuelo, Dowager Duchess of Manchester. Cartier’s records note that she supplied over a thousand brilliant-cut diamonds and more than 400 rose-cut diamonds, while Cartier supplied further rose-cut diamonds and the paste stones which make up the scrolls at the end of each side …
Cartier London aquamarine and diamond tiara. It’s one of the 27 tiaras that Cartier made in 1937, most of which were worn at that year’s coronation of King George VI and Queen Elizabeth. Photography: Vincent Wulveryck for Cartier Collection …
Panther bangle, Cartier Paris, 1978.Photography: Marian Gérard for Cartier Collection …
There is also a collection of Mystery Clocks. The first of these were released in 1912 and were given this name as their hands appear not to be connected to any movement. A Model A mystery clock, Cartier Paris, 1914. Photography: Nils Herrmann for Cartier Collection …
The exhibition runs until 16th November 2025 – highly recommended. I suggest you arrive early as it gets rather crowded.
The threatened redevelopment of Liverpool Street Station
Almost exactly two years ago I reported on the proposed threat to Liverpool Street Station and this has not gone away! If you have not yet objected to the monstrous block they want to plonk on top of Liverpool St Station, the deadline is tomorrow, 4th July.
Ten days ago there were only 180 objections versus 613 comments in favour but thankfully there are now 782 objections versus 670 comments in favour. This is astonishing progress.
Yet if we are to stop this appalling development, we have to far surpass those comments in favour and we have until the end of tomorrow to do this. Please encourage your friends, family, neighbours and colleagues to object.
CLICK HERE TO LEARN HOW TO OBJECT EFFECTIVELY
The Monster Block …
I started today’s blog discussing the wonder of the work of Cartier, but would like to finish with an acknowledgment of the elegance and beauty of Victorian architecture. Here it is perfectly illustrated in this 1962 linocut of Liverpool Street Station by Edward Bawden …
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