As you travel down the escalator at the Walbrook entrance to Bank Underground Station you will encounter a rather remarkable sight …
The 24 illuminated panels on display are a tribute to the Roman life that once flourished in this location, most notably, the nearby Temple of Mithras. Discovered in 1954, the ancient temple has now been restored and returned to its original Roman location, of which more later.
The panels were created in 1960 by the celebrated glass artist, John Hutton (1906 – 1978). Born in New Zealand, Hutton moved to London as a young artist. He became renowned for his masterful work in etched and engraved glass. They were originally on display in an office block called Bucklersbury House and, when that building was scheduled for demolition, they were gifted to London Underground to be installed in the tube station entrance.
The first series depicts daily life in Roman London, with the original London Bridge visible in the background. Women cluster in groups – some holding baskets or amphorae, vessels used to carry oil or wine, while others tend their children. A merchant sells his wares on the steps leading down to the river, while men holding scrolls engage in conversation. A group of soldiers gathers in a small clutch, their swords and spears piled next to them, elsewhere other soldiers ride their horses across the bridge …
A second series of panels shows gods and goddesses from a variety of ancient traditions. This cluster shows three Roman deities, Venus, Bacchus and Minerva but also the Egyptian God Serapis wearing a modius (cylindrical headdress) …
There is also the main iconography from the cult of Mithras, The Tauroctony where Mithras slaughters the bull …
Various other Gods and Goddesses …
You can read more about the delicate removal and restoration of the panels here.
Next door to the station entrance is the London Mithraeum. This is a fantastic venue to visit and entrance is free with a time-booked ticket.
Here are images from my visit some years ago. Descending through time, seven metres or so, from modern London to the very last days of the Romans in Britain, about AD 410 …
The beautifully restored temple itself …
Well done Bloomberg!
Even if you are not planning to visit the temple, you can pop in to the ground floor reception area …
At the moment it is hosting a fascinating free exhibition entitled Folkmoot by Anne Ryan. You can read more about the artist and the work on display here.
Some images from the exhibition …
There is also a permanent, well organised display of Roman artefacts which can be explored using your own mobile device, a tablet that they provide, or just by reading the labels …
If you are fascinated (as I am) with all things Roman London related you could follow the London Wall Walk which is identified throughout the City by plaques like this …
They’re a bit low-tech and weatherbeaten now, but I think that gives them a particular charm. Also, I found this very useful guide to the plaques and the wall in the London on my Mind website. Recommended.
A few words about what we still tend to describe as the ‘Roman’ Wall.
Londinium was a settlement established around AD 43-50. It sat at a key crossing point over the River Thames which turned the city into a trading port, serving as a major commercial centre in Roman Britain until its abandonment during the 5th century. Sometime between 190 and 225, the Romans built the London Wall, a defensive ragstone wall around the landward side of the city. It was one of the largest construction projects carried out in Roman Britain, requiring somewhere in the region of 85,000 tons of Kentish ragstone to complete. A medieval city wall was built on top of the remains of the Roman wall so much of what we see today was constructed in the fifteenth century.
Here are some images I took recently.
For a good sense of the scale of the wall one of the best places to visit is Salters’ Hall Garden …
Impressive as it is, it is pretty much all medieval, although the red tiles were probably scavenged from the earlier Roman construction …
This illustration from the excellent Living London History blog gives a good idea as to how the wall ‘grew’ in medieval times …
You can see medieval stonework. This is the only surviving section with a brick parapet dating from 1477 …
It was added by King Edward IV to help protect the city during the Wars of the Roses.
I like nice, helpful signage …
You also get a good view from the St Alphage Highwalk …
If you head north, you get a glimpse of more remains …
You can view them more easily if you make your way to the friendly, beautifully restored church of St Giles Cripplegate. In the old churchyard you can look across the artificial lake to another section of wall …
Also visible are the remains of two bastions …
I could get close to the more complete one since I have a Barbican Residents’ key …
Fragments of Roman red tiles …
Heron and Roman wall combination …
I’ve seen the heron literally dozens of time but never seen him catch a fish. Although, I’m told, he is partial to the occasional duckling.
And whilst on the subject of birds, a flock of pigeons has arrived at the Barbican shop …
And now I have a companion of my very own …
I know his feet are a little strange, but we don’t talk about that.
In other news.
A palm tree silhouette in Regent’s Park …
Or maybe not …
It’s another surprise exhibit from Frieze 2026 …
If you would like to follow me on Instagram here is the link …
