Symbols & Secrets

Walking the City of London

A visit to Dr Johnson’s House.

Once surrounded by the throbbing printing presses of Fleet Street newspapers, Gough Square is today a quiet haven off the noisy main road. Now known as Dr Johnson’s House, 17 Gough Square was built by one Richard Gough, a City wool merchant, at the end of the seventeenth century. It is the only survivor from a larger development and Dr Johnson lived here from 1748 to 1759 whilst compiling his famous dictionary. It has been open to the public for many years but for some reason I’ve only just got around to visiting it …

The house has the first example of a Royal Society of Arts terracotta plaque (installed in 1898) commemorating Samuel Johnson’s residence here …

The way in …

Dr. Samuel Johnson (1709–1784) was an English writer, lexicographer, critic, and moralist, widely regarded as one of the most influential figures in 18th-century English literature. Born in Lichfield, Staffordshire, on September 18, 1709, he was the son of a bookseller. Despite battling poor health and financial hardship, he developed a voracious appetite for reading and classical learning.

Johnson attended Pembroke College, Oxford, in 1728, but was forced to leave after a year due to lack of funds. Although he did not complete a degree, his academic brilliance left a lasting impression. He moved to London in 1737 with his friend and former pupil David Garrick, who would later become a renowned actor. There, Johnson began his literary career with essays, translations, and poetry, steadily gaining recognition.

His most monumental achievement came in 1755 with the publication of A Dictionary of the English Language. A massive undertaking completed almost single-handedly, the dictionary was the most comprehensive English lexicon of its time and remained a standard reference for over a century. It established Johnson’s reputation as a leading intellectual so I head first to the top floor garrett where the great man worked. I can’t help but think of him grabbing the banister as he climbed the rickety, narrow staircase to the top floor …

The room where he worked. He was originally contracted to complete the project in just three years but in the end it took him just over eight to complete, with six helpers …

On the table is a facsimile of the final version which visitors can leaf through …

I made a point of looking up his famous (or infamous) definition of the word ‘Oats’ : ‘… grain, which in England is generally given to horses, but in Scotland supports the people’.

Note that he not only defines the word but also alludes to other examples of it in context quoting Shakespeare, Locke, Mortimer’s Husbandry and Swift …

Other fascinating definitions include his own occupation as lexicographer: ‘a writer of dictionaries; a harmless drudge, that busies himself in tracing the original, and detailing the signification of words’.

I also like Mouth-friend: ‘One who professes friendship without intending it.’

And what about this elegant, succinct definition of History: ‘A narration of events and facts delivered with dignity’.

Other interesting sights I encountered as I wandered from floor to floor.

Dr Johnson’s dictionary desk on loan from Pembroke College …

A famous portrait …

Bookcase with various editions of the work …

Johnson’s desk and chair …

An odd piece of memorabilia from the Johnson Club (1922). A brick from the Great Wall of China …

The reason for its acquisition …

Note the portrait above the fireplace …

‘This portrait of Anna Williams was painted by Frances Reynolds, sister of the more renowned portraitist, Sir Joshua Reynolds. All were friends with Samuel Johnson. The sitter, Anna Williams, was a friend and housekeeper to Johnson from the early 1750s until her death in 1783. Johnson supported the impoverished Williams, the daughter of a failed inventor, for many decades and helped publish a miscellany of literary works for her benefit. Frances Reynolds has created a sensitive portrayal of Williams who, at an early age, was blinded by untreatable cataracts in both her eyes’ …

Dr Johnson and Mrs Siddons …

‘The celebrated actress Sarah Siddons specialised in tragic roles, which helped her maintain a dignity and good reputation. She met … Johnson near the end of his life and the episode was the inspiration for this painting by Frith. When there was no chair in Johnson’s house for the actress he remarked with charm: ‘Madam, you who so often occasion a want of seats to other people, will the more easily excuse the want of one yourself.’

David Garrick’s chest used for storing his costumes …

Dr Johnson’s straddling chair …

A portriat of Johnson by John Opie (17611807). ‘It depicts Johnson with a “brooding intensity” and “uncompromising directness,” reflecting his character as a prominent figure in English literary criticism. Opie’s work, particularly his portrait of Johnson, is valued for its portrayal of the lexicographer’s character and influence. The portrait, while possibly idealized, stands in contrast to the more realistic depictions by other artists like Sir Joshua Reynolds’ …

James Boswell, whose Life of Samuel Johnson is commonly said to be the greatest biography written in the English language …

In the front room you will find this portrait, possibly depicting Francis Barber …

Barber was an enslaved Jamaican who arrived at the house, to be Dr Johnson’s servant, in 1752 aged ten. Johnson showed Barber great affection, paid for his education and also remarkably made him his heir. They were friends really rather than master and servant.

Johnson’s will leaving his trust to Francis Barber, Johnson himself had no direct descendants …

The fine front door (c.1775) complete with anti-burglary devices: a large chain with corkscrew latch, a spiked bar across the fanlight window and two large bolts …

The house is packed with fascinating items telling the story of the great man, his endeavours and the people who knew and worked with him. A highly recommended visit.

At the other side of the square, facing the house, is Johnson’s most famous cat, Hodge. Here he is remembered by this attractive bronze by John Bickley which was unveiled by the Lord Mayor, no less, in 1997. Hodge sits atop a copy of the dictionary and alongside a pair of empty oyster shells. Oysters were very affordable then and Johnson would buy them for Hodge himself. James Boswell, in his Life of Johnson, explained why:

I never shall forget the indulgence with which he treated Hodge, his cat: for whom he himself used to go out and buy oysters, lest the servants having that trouble should take a dislike to the poor creature

People occasionally put coins in the shell for luck and every now and then Hodge is given a smart bow tie of pink lawyers’ ribbon.

‘A very fine cat, a very fine cat indeed’, said Johnson

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Seafarers and a boy soldier at Tower Hamlets Cemetery Park.

By the 1830s central London’s cemeteries were literally overflowing with bodies but it was entrepreneurs, rather than the religious authorities, who responded to the squalor by financing seemly, hygienic concepts of burial in the rural outskirts, now embraced by inner London. The Magnificent Seven is an informal term applied these developments and I am gradually working my way around them. I have now visited Highgate and Abney Park and recently I ventured east to Mile End and Tower Hamlets Cemetery Park.

The City of London and Tower Hamlets Cemetery Company was made up of eleven wealthy directors whose occupations reflect the industries of the day: corn merchant, merchant ship broker and ship owner, timber merchant, and Lord Mayor of the City of London. The company bought 27 acres (109,265 m2) of land and the cemetery was divided into a consecrated part for Anglican burials and an unconsecrated part for all other denominations. The Cemetery was very popular with people from the East End and by 1889 247,000 bodies had been interred (the cemetery remained open for another 77 years). In the first two years 60% of the burials were in public graves and by 1851 this had increased to 80%. Public graves were the property of the company and were used to bury those whose families could not afford to buy a plot. Several persons, entirely unrelated to each other, could be buried in the same grave within the space of a few weeks. There are stories of some graves being dug 40 feet deep and containing up to 30 bodies.

I headed straight for the beautifully situated war memorial …

It consistes of 16 bronze tablets carrying a list of 283 names. I often find it incredibly moving to look closely at the names, and particularly the ages, of those who have been commemorated in memorials such as this.

This panel certainly told a story since the first name I came across was that of a 17-year-old called Private W J Thurgood of the Civil Service Rifles

The rules were that you had to be 18 to join up or be conscripted but it is estimated that around 250,000 boys under that age served during the First World War. Incidentally, the letters P.W.O. stand for the Prince of Wales’ Own.

This image tells a story …

The panel in full …

Of the fourteen men listed here where ages are stated, eight are aged 21 or younger.

You can read more about the teenage soldiers of World War 1 here.

A terrible storm at sea is brought to mind here on the family grave of Alfred James Gill and Captain J Warne. I love the details such as the rigging, the bird hovering on the left and what looks like lightning flashing on the right ….

A commemoration of the 190 people who died in Second World War air raids ….

The bricks used in this memorial come from the bombed houses nearby. The mention of a garden in the inscription (“THIS GARDEN…”) is about a garden that does not exist any more because, first, it became a path right up to the brick memorial, and second, the memorial itself was moved to a different location within the cemetery in 1995 because of vandalism.

One of the largest – and certainly the most imposing – family monument in the cemetery, is the Westwood Monument. Joseph Westwood, a businessman, lived at Tredegar House on the Bow Road …

You can read more about the Westwood dynasty here.

A few steps from the Westwood Monument is a 2016 memorial marking the
grave of three of Dr Thomas Barnado’s own children, and more than five hundred children who died whilst in his care who are buried elsewhere in
the Cemetery. Dr Barnado, who started his work with poor children in Stepney in 1868, set up The Ragged School in Stepney Causeway and children’s homes across the East End …

This is the large family vault erected for Ann Francis (d. 1859), wife of
Charles Francis (d.1861), a corn merchant and one of the founding Directors of the Cemetery. This is the highest point in the Cemetery Park and at the time the vault was built it was possible to see the Thames …

The monument was designed with a curious secret: a brick was removed from a wall so that the sun would shine through a wrought iron cross in a door on the western side of the vault at dawn on midsummer’s day …

The Bears were of German Jewish origin but converted to Methodism
and anglicised their names. Those buried here include Henry Bear, a wealthy tobacco and sugar merchant who lived on Cable Street …

The unusual mural of wheat signifies everlasting life …

The consoling text from John XII, v 24 “Except a corn of wheat fall into the ground and die, it abideth alone: but if it die, it bringeth forth much fruit.

This is the grave of Will Crooks (d. 1921) and his second wife Elizabeth.
A casual labourer in the docks he became politically active and was one of the leaders of the historic 1889 Dock Strike,in which dockworkers
successfully demonstrated for increased wages …

He campaigned not only for fair wages but also open spaces, technical education and the opening of the Blackwall Tunnel. He became London’s first Labour mayor in 1901 when he was named Mayor of Poplar. He was elected to Parliament in 1903 winning in Woolwich, a traditionally Tory constituency …

The grave was rediscovered and the Labour Party and local council paid for its restoration. A true working class hero, you can read more about him here.

This small stone marker commemorates Alfred Linnel …

A steel plaque attached to it reads:

‘Alfred Linnell, 1846 – 1887, is buried near this spot.
On Sunday 13th November 1887, ten thousand people marched towards Trafalgar Square, protesting against repression in Ireland and unemployment. Police and troops beat them with truncheons. A week after ‘Bloody Sunday’ Alfred Linnell, joined a gathering in Trafalgar Square to protest against the authorities’ violence. He was knocked down by a police horse and died on December 2nd.

Not one, not one, nor thousands must they slay
But one and all if they would dusk the day.

William Morris.’

The pamphlet printed to raise money for his family …

Apparently his was one of the biggest funerals ever held at the cemetery with literally thousands of people following the procession.

Unfortunately I failed to find the grave of Music Hall star (and husband of Marie Lloyd) Alec Hurley. Here’s an image of it I found online …

And the man himself …

This stone displays very unusual information. Captain John Chrystal was buried at sea and the relevant Latitude and Longitude map co-ordinates are engraved on the family tombstone …

Research shows that his ship, The Travancore, was just off the coast of Peru when he died. The ‘Register of Deceased Seamen’ gives his cause of death as ‘Heart Failure’.

The Travancore …

And John’s Master’s Certificate is also online, along with other documents …

Here are other images I took as I walked around. Some graves seem incredibly close together and, since the graveyard was hit by bombs a number of times during the Blitz, I’m wondering whether the markers were disturbed and have subsequently been propped up again …

Fred Savill’s memorial incorporates a sculpture of a horse. Maybe he enjoyed a ‘flutter on the gee gees’ …

Though filled with gravestones and funerary monuments, the cemetery has been allowed to revert to resemble a natural woodland, with many wildflowers, birds and insect species found in the park. There are several trails and walks created by the Friends of Tower Hamlets Cemetery Park you can follow. Here is one of them.

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Giacometti and Huma Bhabha at the Barbican.

What was once the Searcys restaurant on the second floor is now an intimate gallery space overlooking the lake with a splendid view across to St Giles church. It is now hosting its first series of groundbreaking exhibitions entitled Encounters:Giacometti.

‘One of the most significant European sculptors of the 20th century, Giacometti is known for his distinctive, elongated sculptures which experiment with the human form. Responding to the pain and devastation caused by the Second World War, his works proposed a new perspective on humanity and the collective psyche.

Organised in collaboration with the Fondation Giacometti, the first of a series is now open with an exhibition of works by Huma Bhabha. This will be followed by Mona Hatoum in September and Lynda Benglis in February 2026. Their artworks resonate with and respond to Giacometti’s sculptures, opening up new intergenerational dialogues through the timeless themes of death, fragmentation, the domestic, memory, trauma, the erotic, horror and humour. This is the first time that their sculptures will be seen alongside Giacometti’s works’. You can read more about Huma Bhabha in this Guardian interview along with a review here.

Here are some of the images I took when I visited which will hopefully give you a flavour of the exhibition …

Giacometti The Glade, 1950

Huma Bhabha Untitled, 2022

Giacometti Large Head, 1960

Huma Bhabha Untitled, 2022

Giacometti, in the foreground, Four Women on a Base, 1950

Huma Bhabha Untitled, 2022

Nice space …

Huma Bhabha What Should it Be, 2024

Giacometti Walking Woman, 1932

Huma Bhabha Mask of Dimitrios, 2019

Giacometti Three Walking Men, 1948

Huma Bhabha Magic Carpet, 2003

Giacometti Walking Man 1, 1960

The Guardian gave the exhibition 5 Stars and so do I *****

Four of Huma Bhabha’s works are also installed in the lobby …

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