Walking the City of London

Category: Religion Page 1 of 19

Daft pigeons, Queen Victoria’s waiting room and other miscellany.

As regular readers will know, every now and then I can’t find a theme that will support an entire blog and, in such cases, I just raid my image archive and see what I come up with. This is one of those days.

I walk across Gilbert Bridge almost every morning and in mid-June I noticed this pigeon squeezing itself into a corner by a pillar …

At first I thought it was unwell, but then a few days later I noticed it had a companion …

Then, over the next few weeks, they both started appearing with twigs in their beaks …

I cannot claim to be an authority on nest building (or pigeons, for that matter) but I didn’t think that location was viable and, sadly, one month later no progress had been made …

And, frankly, there was barely room for the two of them never mind a nest as well …

It was also obviously looking a tad unhygenic, but I don’t think that tends to bother pigeons.

Now they seem to have abandoned their efforts but obviously I will report back if they return. Pigeons get a very bad press, which I think is rather unfair. If you want to know more about them (and some of their gallant ancestors) click here for my blog ‘What do pigeons do all day?’

One day I found this little poem by Terry Ryan pinned up alongside a church door:

Every time I pass church
I stop and make a visit
So when I’m carried in feet first
God won’t say, “Who is it?”

Wherever we travel I head for churches and churchyards at the earliest opportunity and am usually rewarded with interesting sights. In Italian churches, it’s common to see votive limbs (or other body parts) particularly in the form of metal or wax replicas. They are placed there to express gratitude or to seek divine healing for specific ailments. I came across these in a church in Sorrento, I think they are rather beautiful …

Nearby were some extraordinarily detailed representations of the Nativity …

They were accompanied by scenes of people going about their normal business (plus some hovering angels) …

Not sure what this represents – probably a religious festival …

I think it’s so lovely in Italy when forthcoming funerals are announced on notice boards along with some details about the person …

Back in the UK, the Wedding Routemaster parked up behind St Lawrence Jewry …

The King’s Birthday flypast …

At St Giles Cripplegate, John Milton meets a double bass travelling case …

The Honourable Artillery Company on their way to provide a gun salute for President Macron’s State Visit …

A surprise in St Mary’s Church, Tenby, the man who invented the equals sign =

Nearby in St Nicholas’ Chapel is the tomb of Margaret Mercer, wife of Thomas ap Rees of Scotsborough. Margaret died in childbirth in 1610 at the age of 30, having already borne ten children. The seven children who survived her are shown beneath her effigy, while above her is a likeness of her husband in a kneeling pose. The memorial is beautifully restored and repainted to emulate its original richly decorated appearance …

I really like authentic, handwritten signage …

Here’s what it refers to …

On our way to Tenby I stopped by one of my very favourite War memorials. It’s on Platform 1 at Paddington Station …

The memorial consists of a bronze statue of a soldier, dressed in heavy winter clothing, reading a letter from home. One commentator imagined that the home-knitted scarf may have been a gift from his mother or sweetheart and I can’t help but agree. The sculptor was Charles Sargeant Jagger (1885–1934) and you can read more about the background to the sculpture here.

Since we were treating ourselves to a first class ticket we could use the Paddington lounge and it’s well worth a visit. Alongside the modern area is what was once Queen Victoria’s private waiting room …

Some of the original wall decoration remains …

There are also other items of rail memorabilia …

I believe the furnishings aspire to suggest ‘Gentlemen’s Club’!

The lounge is also on Platform 1 and is tucked away behind the memorial.

This summer, the Barbican has invited audiences to step into Feel the Sound, a new multi-sensory immersive exhibition that transforms how we think about sound. ‘Taking place across the Centre, visitors can explore how sound shapes emotions, memories, and even physical sensations. Feel the Sound challenges us to listen not just with our ears, but with our whole bodies – redefining what we hear, how we feel, and what we think we know about ourselves’.

For example, there is this display as you walk through the Centre at ground level …

As the sound background changes so does the image …

And what are these people looking at in The Well …

This is what’s happening …

And what I saw when I looked down …

And at Citypoint …

And finally, in Cardiff, just when I thought I’d seen it all …

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St Benet Paul’s Wharf. Get a sense of what the geniuses Wren and Hooke wanted a church to look like .

Dedicated to the 6th century St Benedict who founded the original monastic code, St Benet’s stands rather isolated with the fast traffic of Queen Victoria Street flowing high above (EC4V 4ER) …

It was built between 1678 and 1684 under the auspices of Sir Christopher Wren (1632-1723) with original drawings by Robert Hooke (1635-1703). It’s one of the few City churches to survive Victorian reordering and 20th century bomb damage and remains much as it was built.

The Dutch-influenced exterior is built of red and blue brick, with stone quoins on the corners and carved stone garlands over the winows …

The interior of the church retains substantial galleries on the west and north side. The north side gallery …

… which offers a striking view of St Paul’s Cathedral from the main aisle …

Original furnishings include the reredos, which displays the Ten Commandments, Creed and Lord’s Prayer, beneath the tetragrammaton (the name of God in Hebrew characters) …

The magnificent Communion table (possibly Flemish) with its carved angels and central figure of Charity …

The original elegant Communion rails with twisted balusters …

The pulpit, originally marked with the royal cipher and ‘Donum [given] 1683’ …

Some online guides attribute the carving to Grinling Gibbons but evidence is, apparently, not convincing. It’s still beautiful though …

The pulpit’s tester, or sounding board, is now located in the vestibule below the tower …

Another original furnishing is the octagonal marble font and its carved wooden cover …

Many of these furnishings were given by the lawyer and diplomat Sir Leoline (Llewellyn) Jenkins (1625-1685).

The splendid doorcase to the tower lobby is surmounted by the royal arms of Charles II …

View from the north gallery …

Balcony miscellany ..

Since 1555, St Benet has been the church of the College of Arms (the heraldic authority for England, Wales, Northern Ireland and much of the Commonwealth) which stands nearly opposite on Queen Victoria Street.

The view of the church from the College forecourt …

At least 25 Officers of Arms have been buried in the church …

Coats of arms of College officers …

There is a memorial in the church to John Charles Brooke …

It refers to a ‘dreadful calamity’ at the Haymarket Theatre on 3 February 1794 which resulted in Brooke losing his life …

On that date, George III and Queen Charlotte were attending the Haymarket Theatre for the first time that season, and the royal command performance attracted vast numbers of people. The crowds were so huge that when the door was opened, those in the front of the queue were pushed down the stairs leading to the pit. More than 70 people fell and at least 20 were fatally crushed to death or suffocated. You can read more about the ‘Haymarket Tramplings’ here.

There is a splendid white marble bust of Sir Robert Wyseman (d. 1684). Sir Robert was Dean of the Court of Arches, the Archbishop of Canterbury’s chief ecclesiastical court, once held at St Mary-le-Bow …

When looking for great descriptions of monuments I always return to Bob Speel’s website.

Here’s what he says about Wyseman: ‘The portrait is also excellent – a rather solid-faced man, given a look of pride and dignity, a stern man, with flowing locks of hair or wig, his throat covered by an ornate carved high collar, his chest within a heavy robe. Pevsner, the architectural historian, notes that the monument has been attributed to Grinling Gibbons and the bust to Arnold Quellin’.

Here’s a closer look …

My eyes were drawn to this old bible resting in a pew beside the altar …

Being nosey, I looked to see if there was anything of interest written in the flyleaves. And there was! It was a gift ‘Presented to Sir John Puleston by the aged Welsh poor of the East End on their 25th Annual Treat, January 21st 1896 as a small token of their Love and Esteem’. It’s signed (and presumably written) on their behalf by ‘R H Williams Missionary’. Isn’t that wonderful …

The left hand page explains how it has found its way to St Benet – a gift in 1945 from Sir John’s grand daughter.

It is, of course, a Welsh Bible, with this inscription inside …

Sir John’s life is so remarkable I can’t even begin to describe it here so have provided some links. To whet your appetite, here he is in Washington DC holding the rank of Colonel ..

On 19 October he 1908 he passed away at his home at 2 Whitehall Court, London. Every pilot ship around Britain’s coast flew its flag at half mast. After a memorial service in London, he was buried in the family vault at Llanfair Dyffryn Clwyd, a village and community in Denbeighshire, Wales. He died bankrupt.

Two links for you to follow if you want to know more about him – in Wikipedia and in a fascinating ancestry site.

In the aisle is the tombstone of an extraordinary woman …

The inscription reads as follows:

Here lieth the body of Mrs. DELARIVIER MANLEY, Daughter of Sir Roger Manley, Knight, Who, suitable to her birth and education, was acquainted with several Parts of Knowledge And with the most Polite Writers, both in the FRENCH and ENGLISH tongue. This Accomplishment, Together with a greater natural Stock of Wit, made her Conversation Agreeable to All who knew Her and her Writings to be universally read with Pleasure. She dyed July 11 Anno Domini 1724.

A little more about her from a review of an autobiography: ‘A Tory pamphleteer, playwright, and satirical historian, Manley was regarded by her contemporaries Jonathan Swift and Robert Harley as a key member of the Tory propaganda team. Her best-selling political scandal chronicle The New Atlantis (1709) helped to bring down the Whig ministry in 1710. Her reputation was tarnished, however, in subsequent generations and twentieth-century scholars often misread her works as under-developed novels rather than as complex works of political satire’.

Sadly no picture of her exists but you can read more about her here.

For a great guide to the many other interesting monuments and memorials in the church, have a look at Bob Speel’s website.

Located as it is, on the south side of the busy Queen Victoria Street below the level of the road, St Benet looks rather inaccessible, but this is misleading. To visit, just cross at the pedestrian crossing leading to the Millennium Bridge, turn right, walk down the steps and you’re at the church in less than five minutes.

A magnificent eagle lectern …

Times to visit are restricted to when the Friends of City Churches are available to welcome visitors and at the moment this is on Thursdays between 11:00am and 3:00pm. They do a super job keeping churches open for visitors and the members who were on duty when I visited last Thursday were splendid company and very informative guides. There is a service there every Sunday. It’s primarily in Welsh since, by an Order in Council in 1879, St Benet became the Metropolitan Welsh Church after Queen Victoria was petitioned to prevent its demolition.

It is difficult now to imagine now what the area looked like before post-war development but this photograph, probably taken in the 1920s from the north across Queen Victoria Street, gives some idea (© The London Museum) …

A painting by Rev John Louis Petit (1801 – 1868). He records it as having been made at mid-day, 22 June 1856 …

An engraving of St Benet’s Paul’s Wharf (c1rca 1838) reproduced from Godwin, ‘The Churches of London’ Vol I, 1838 …

In August 1952 …

The church amidst 1960s redevelopment …

For even more information, visit the excellent London Inheritance blog entitled The Lost Wharfs of Upper Thames Street and St. Benet’s Welsh Church.

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Highlights of my Madeira holiday.

I know, I know, other people’s holiday pics are boring. Many apologies, but the really cold weather since we returned put me off wandering the streets looking for stories.

Anyway, I still hope you find the following interesting.

Funchal, the capital, is a nice city to walk around. One thing that is very much a feature, both here and all over Portugal, is the attractive paving …

Called “Calçada Portuguesa” (Portuguese pavement), it consists of small flat stones of basalt and limestone displayed like a mosaic.

And not a discarded Lime Bike or rental scooter in sight!

The 16th century gothic style Funchal Cathedral is quite understated from the outside …

But stunning within …

We also visited the Church of Our Lady of the Mount, rebuilt in 1818 after an earthquake destroyed its predecessor …

The Last Supper …

That must be Judas lurking in the corner, clutching the bag with his 30 pieces of silver.

I didn’t realise that Charles I of Austria (who died in exile in Madeira) had been beatified by the Pope and was therefore firmly on the road to full sainthood.

His coffin is on display in the church …

When his tomb was opened in 1972 his body was discovered remarkably well-preserved—despite the fact that a window in the coffin had broken, allowing in moisture and damp, tropical air. It was opened again in 2003 and a rib removed as a relic with pieces distributed to shrines around the world.

Looking down over the city …

There was an art gallery in the botanical gardens near the church. Here are some images from our visit …

The view from the cable car heading back to the city centre …

Funchal has expanded greatly since our last visit 24 years ago.

Art for sale on the street …

Interesting architecture …

Pretty tiles outside the old Ritz Hotel …

Some would say that this was a work of art …

Knick-Knack selection …

Cruise ships are not pretty, but this one put on a bit of a light show …

We didn’t see many seagulls – maybe because of this chap on patrol every day with his tame falcon …

We really enjoyed the food!

A perfect poached egg (well, it is for me, maybe a bit runny for some) …

The way to serve honey at breakfast time …

In the evening, local shrimp in garlic butter with a top class Portuguese rosé (a generous glass for 4 Euros) …

Crêpes Suzette, a perfect finish …

Plus a brandy and a coffee, of course (dry January is a distant memory) …

Sadly, we didn’t have time to take in this intriguingly named show …

The journey home was a bit fraught. The plane taking off two and a half hours late followed by our taxi driver forgetting where he had parked in the multi-storey at Gatwick! Made it home safely in the end, though.

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