Walking the City of London

Category: Philanthropy Page 1 of 4

Some brilliant AI along with old City images and Spring flowers.

It’s true that some applications of artificial intelligence should be treated with caution but have a look at these screenshots from an AI generated ‘Tour of London’ in the 15oos.

Old London Bridge …

Walking across old London Bridge, it doesn’t appear to be over water at all due to the houses and businesses on either side …

St Paul’s Cathedral before the spire was struck by lightning …

The Tower of London …

I found the images fascinating and they come with a nice commentary. Here’s a link to the youtube version. If the link doesn’t work, just Google A Tour of London in the 1500s.

Thinking of old London, I had a quick dive back into my three volumes of Wonderful London to see if I could find some pictures I hadn’t used before …

The books were published in 1929 and therefore illustrate London and its people in the short period between the wars.

Dr Johnson on the Strand facing Fleet Street …

A more recent image shows the Second World War shrapnel scars on the east side of St Clement Danes church …

Amazingly, these guys are practising their putting on the roof of Adelaide House just north of London Bridge, and it’s obviously real grass, hence the roller in the background …

Here’s the building, I think it’s covered in scaffolding at present due to refurbishment …

These are poignant images of the London Fire Brigade in action before the War.

Putting out a fire in Moor Lane. All these buildings were subsequently destroyed in wartime bombing …

A warehouse blaze …

Their experience was invaluable during wartime raids. During the 57 nights of relentless bombing (now known as The Blitz) 997 firefighters lost their lives of which 327 were based in London. Many were part-time volunteers from the Auxiliary Fire Service – ordinary people doing extraordinary things. They were shopkeepers, factory workers, teachers – men and women who put on a uniform, picked up a hose, and ran towards the flames.

‘Palatial’ Salisbury House …

Still there …

A ferocious lion guards the London Wall entrance …

John Milton on his original plinth before he was blown off by the blast from a nearby bomb …

So undignified …

His new home in St Giles Cripplegate, the church in the first picture above. It was gutted in the Blitz but is now beautifully restored …

His original plinth today. In the background to the right you can see a portion of the old City wall bastion

Here it is from another angle …

As can be seen from the 1920s picture below, the top of the bastion was level with, and part of, the St Giles churchyard. I suspect the lower part was subsequently revealed by Second World War bombing …

A little ‘secret’ garden at St Giles …

Life on the canals …

For more images and stories, have a look at my blog on the London Canal Museum

Fleet Street in 1926 and 1880 …

Hard to believe that the railway bridge blocking the view of St Paul’s Cathedral wasn’t demolished until 1990 …

Just before demolition …

And now …

One of my favourite pictures and captions, the ‘Cats-meat man’ …

Horses quenching their thirst at a Metropolitan Drinking Fountain Association trough …

Read more about the Association and its history in my blog Philanthropic Fountains. A trough on London Wall …

St Batholomew the Great then ..

And now …

A 1915 image. Rahere’s tomb protected from bombing by sandbags during the First World War …

I visited and wrote in detail about this amazing church about five years ago and you can read my blog here.

The Old Bailey …

You can read about my Old Bailey tour here.

Here’s the picture I took then of Elizabeth Fry’s statue …

Help for the homeless and disabled …

The judgmental caption referring to idle vagrants shirking all work made me cringe a bit.

Scenes and captions resonant of the times …

Presumably the top two pictures are intended to illustrate ‘before’ and ‘after’. I can’t help but wonder what the little chap was thinking when the second photo was taken.

Wembley Stadium ‘…like an ants’ nest carelessly broken open’. And the commentary below the image, comparing the stadium with the Colosseum (‘…exceeding it in size by one half’) and the people crushed to death in the crowd on Cup Final day a reminder of ‘the decay of Roman morals’!

Buses old and new in the 1920s …

And now, outside Cannon Street Station …

Finally, some Spring pics of nature to cheer us up.

Andrewes House Car Park …

St Giles Magnolias …

Opposite Salters’ Hall …

Silk Street …

In Postman’s Park …

Finally, ‘lest we forget’, when you next visit Postman’s Park, do pause and observe the sundial …

It features the inscription, ‘In loving memory and recognition of the self-sacrifice of the Barts Health NHS Trust staff who lost their lives whilst caring for patients during the Covid-19 pandemic.’

The idea to install a memorial in the Park came from Helen Parker, an A&E consultant and the deputy medical director of Newham Hospital, who spent time there during lockdown. She said: ‘NHS staff surrendered so much during the pandemic including time with loved ones and relationships. It was the ultimate example of self-sacrifice and this is a fitting place to remember them.’

My visit to Cutlers’ Hall – swords, stained glass and much more.

One of the great pleasures of writing this blog is that every now and again I get a nice surprise. In February of this year I wrote about the wonderful terracotta frieze on Cutlers Hall

Subsequently, I received a kind invitation from Richard Herbert, a Past Master of the Cutlers’ Company, to visit the Hall and have a tour. We finally managed to get together last week and here’s my report.

At the front door I encoutered two of the literally hundreds of elephants that seem to occupy almost every corner of the building (including the soft furnishings!)

The cosy welcoming lobby …

Cutlers are known to have been practising their craft in London from at least the 2nd or 3rd century AD. Indeed, the word ‘cutler’ is derived from the Latin ‘cutellarius’ through the Old French ‘coutelier’ and signifies a maker or seller of knives and weapons with a cutting edge. Although cutlers traded in all manner of cutting instruments, it was their skill at producing fighting weapons that brought them wealth and prosperity. From earliest times until the end of the 16th century, with wars in France and internal civil wars, the demand for edged weapons was both constant and profitable. Only later did the emphasis shift from implements of war to cutlery and other domestic wares such as razors and scissors.

On 4th December 1416, the year following the battle of Agincourt, Henry V granted to the Company its first Royal Charter. This can be no coincidence, for the King had assembled his army in haste, and this was the only Livery Company to which he granted a Charter. One can speculate that the grant may have been made in part payment for arms supplied.

Stained glass in the entrance hall representing the granting of the Charter …

The Company continued to prosper, and in 1515 it was ordained that they should be placed 18th in the order of precedence of the City Companies, where they remain to this day. Over the years various monarchs have cancelled and reissued the Charter; the one under which the Company operates today was granted by James I in 1606 …

A ‘House of the Cutlers’ was recorded in 1285, just off Cheapside. By the early 15th century they had moved to a building on Cloak Lane, near Cannon Street. In 1660 their hall was in dire need of a rebuild, therefore the money was raised and the hall rebuilt on the same site. The final bills were paid in June 1666 only for the hall to be destroyed in the Great Fire of London three months later

Rebuilding started once again and the next hall was finished in 1670. Their bad luck continued however as, in 1882, the site was compulsorily acquired by the Metropolitan and District Railway Company and the hall was knocked down. This is when they moved to their current site and had their new hall built. The new Hall was designed by Mr. T. Tayler Smith, the Company’s Surveyor, and came into use on March 7th 1888. Above the door is the Cutlers’ Company French motto – To Succeed through good faith

The coat of arms displays three sets of crossed swords, a reference to their trade …

At the top is an elephant with a castle on its back. This is a heraldic symbol representing strength, but also a nod to the ivory that would have once used in the handles of their cutlery. Thankfully, of course, the use of ivory today is illegal.

Their string of bad luck fortunately came to an end in World War Two. The Hall amazingly managed to survive the bombs of the Blitz that flattened much of the area around it. It was more or less just Cutlers’ Hall and St Paul’s Cathedral that survived in this corner of the City. A high explosive bomb did destroy the entire building next to it on the 10th May 1941, bringing down the hall’s North wall. The damage however was repaired and the hall brought back into use …

My tour of the building was conducted by Beadle Tiago Lucas whose enthusiasm and vast knowledge of the building and the Company made this a real treat. Space doesn’t allow me to repeat all I saw and learnt here so here are some highlights.

Every December brings the traditional ‘Feast of the Boar’s Head’, commemorated here in this painting …

… and by this chap who greets you on the way up the stairs …

At the foot of the stairs …

The Hall is home to a number of very interesting collections.

Graham duHeaume excavated nearly 900 knives from the foreshore of the River Thames between 1970 and 1986. He generously donated the bulk of his collection to the Company in 2020 …

Examples of beautifully carved handles and, in the drawers beneath, the Company also possesses a fine collection of City of London, Livery and Guild-related medals and badges from their origins in the 17th. century to the present day …

You can view the collections in detail online here.

Presentation swords (with our reflection, whoops!) …

This exhibit tells a story …

Swords belonging to Viscount Montgomery of Alamein and The Duke of Cambridge …

Along with the latter’s interesting history …

A sword, said to have belonged to the son of King Edward III – Edward of Woodstock – better known as The Black Prince …

The magnificent Livery Hall, its main feature being its Victorian hammer beam roof …

Mounted high on the end wall above the canopy hangs a Barge Banner used for the Lord Mayor’s procession in 1763 when the Lord Mayor was Alderman Bridgen, a Cutler. The banner depicts the Arms of the Company and the City, Britannia, the Wand of Mercury, Roman Fasces and the Wand of Aesculapius …

The representation of the Stuart Arms is believed to date from about 1670-88 and to have been carved by a contemporary of Grinling Gibbons, who for a time resided in the Company’s premises at the ‘Belle Sauvage’ Inn on Ludgate Hill …

The hall has a fantastic selection of stained glass, for example cutlers going about their trade …

And Masters’ Coats of Arms from earlier Halls …

Right back to the seventeenth century, in fact …

Along with some vandalism, where an 18th century member has scratched his name on the glass, maybe using a diamond on a ring …

Not to be forgotten is the fact that charitable giving is an incredibly important part of the Company’s overall purpose and you can read more about this here. Also, you can use this link to read more about the annual Contemporary Cutlery Design competition along with images of winning designs. My favourite is the 2021 winner Hand by Anli Hou

I enjoyed my visit enormously. The relatively small size of the Hall means it manages to perform a difficult trick. It is not only friendly and intimate, but also suitably impressive, representing the long and prestigious history of the Company.

You can read more about the Company and the Hall (which is available for hire) here.

If you would like to follow me on Instagram here is the link …

https://www.instagram.com/london_city_gent

The Heroes of Postman’s Park.

You only need to visit the Watts Memorial to Heroic Self Sacrifice in Postman’s Park to see evidence of the dangers that people were exposed to in Victorian times.

Here is the man we have to thank for this window on the past …

George Frederic Watts was a famous Victorian artist and this picture is a self-portrait. He first suggested the memorials we see today in 1887 but the idea was not taken up until 1898 when the vicar of St Botolph’s church offered him this site in Postman’s Park. There Watts’ ambition to commemorate ‘likely to be forgotten heroes’ came to fruition and when the park was officially opened on 30 July 1900 there were already four tablets in place.

Sixty two people feature on the memorial today which is housed in a wooden loggia …

I find that their stories still evoke a range of emotions, particularly ones of sadness and curiosity, which left me wanting to know more about these people, their lives and the manner of their deaths. There are also clues as to the nature of society and work at that time along with the quality of healthcare.

We are reminded, for example, that horses played a tremendous part in work practices, transport, leisure and, sadly, war. It’s estimated, for example, that there were about 3.3 million horses in late Victorian Britain and in 1900 about a million of these were working horses. Of the 62 people commemorated here, five died as a result of an incident involving horses and I shall write about two of them.

Here is the first mention of horses on the wall …

William Drake earned his living as a carriage driver and on this occasion his passenger was one of the most famous sopranos of her day, a lady called Thérèse Tietjens. The breaking of the carriage pole caused panic among the horses and they reared out of control. In fighting to control them, Drake received a severe kick to his right knee which subsequently resulted in the septicaemia that led to his death on April 8th. A message was passed to the coroner at the inquest that ‘those dependent on the deceased would be amply cared for by Madame Tietjens’. Notwithstanding this, Drake was buried at the expense of the parish in a common grave in Brompton Cemetery, although there is evidence that his widow did receive an annuity from somewhere.

Elizabeth Boxall died after being kicked by a runaway carthorse as she pulled a small child out of its way …

Her brave act actually took place in July 1887 but over the next eleven months poor Elizabeth’s health deteriorated. Part of her leg was amputated in September and a further part (up to her hip) in January 1888, her condition being complicated by a diagnosis of cancer. Her parents were distraught by her death and the way she had been treated by the medical profession – for example, the first amputation was carried out without her or her parents’ permission. ‘They regularly butchered her at that hospital’ her father exclaimed at the inquest and the jury found that shock from the second operation was the cause of death. No one from the hospital attended the inquest but the House Governor at the London Hospital disputed the finding in a letter to the press.

Still on a medical theme, the highly contagious infection known as diptheria features twice on the memorials. Now extremely rare due to vaccination programmes, it was once a frequent killer of small children and also posed a danger to physicians such as Samuel Rabbeth …

I have been able to locate a picture of him thanks to the excellent London Walking Tours blog…

Dr Samuel Rabbeth (1858 – 1884) from The Illustrated London News 15th November 1884
Copyright, The British Library Board

On October 10th the doctor was treating a four year old patient who was in danger of asphyxiation as diptheria often resulted in a membrane blocking the airways. The standard treatment of tracheotomy had been performed but to no avail and Rabbeth performed the more risky procedure of sucking on the tracheotomy tube to remove the obstruction. Unfortunately in doing so he contracted the infection himself and died on 20th October (not the 26th as shown on the plaque). There was some (fairly muted) criticism of his actions by doctors who believed he acted recklessly, although from the most honourable of motives.

He has a fine gravestone in Barnes Cemetery which gives details of his personal professional history and the circumstances of his death …

Dr Lucas was infected as a result of an unfortunate accident …

He was in the process of administering an anaesthetic to a child with diptheria in order that a tracheotomy could be carried out. The child coughed or sneezed in his face but, instead of delaying to clean himself up, which may have endangered the child’s life, he continued and as a result became infected. He died within a week.

I haven’t been able to find an image of him or his final resting place but a poem written in his memory was published in a number of newspapers and you can read it in full here.

Thomas Griffin was engaged to be married on 16 April 1899 and on 11 April he had travelled to Northampton to discuss arrangements with his family and then back home to Battersea for work the next day. He expected that by the end of the week he would be married, but that was not to be, and by the end of the following day he was dead …

An inquest on 17 April was told that, after an explosion in the refinery boiler room, the door had been closed and the men told to keep out. Griffin, who had been evacuated to safety, suddenly cried out ‘My mate! My mate!’ and before anyone could stop him had disappeared into the boiler room. Terribly scalded all over his body he died later that day. The coroner lamented that …

… the conduct of a man like him deserves to be recorded. No doubt there are heroes in everyday life, but they do not come to the front and so we do not hear of them.

Unbeknown to the coroner, Watts had been collecting newspaper cuttings of heroic acts for years and added Griffin’s story to the growing archive. So it came to pass that Thomas Griffin was among the first four people to be commemorated upon the newly opened memorial.

And finally …

One might get the impression that this gentleman was particularly worthy of recognition because the person he saved was not only a stranger but also a foreigner. This would be a shame if it detracts from a very brave act and a tragic one also since, according to Cambridge’s brother Royston, John need not have perished. He told the Nottingham Evening Post

My brother, who was a very good swimmer, saw while bathing an unknown person drowning, and swam out to her assistance. The bathing boat rescued the lady, and the other bather, but the boatmen declined to go out again, although we implored them to do so, and offered them payment, until they were ordered out by officials. It was then, of course, too late.

I have written in great detail about the following four heroes in an earlier blog which you can find (along with pictures of three of them) here

I am indebted for the background research used in this blog to the historian John Price and his incredibly interesting book Heroes of Postman’s Park – Heroic Self-Sacrifice in Victorian London. You will find details of how to purchase your copy here.

Remember you can follow me on Instagram …

https://www.instagram.com/london_city_gent/

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