Walking the City of London

Category: Philanthropy Page 1 of 4

My visit to Cutlers’ Hall – swords, stained glass and much more.

One of the great pleasures of writing this blog is that every now and again I get a nice surprise. In February of this year I wrote about the wonderful terracotta frieze on Cutlers Hall

Subsequently, I received a kind invitation from Richard Herbert, a Past Master of the Cutlers’ Company, to visit the Hall and have a tour. We finally managed to get together last week and here’s my report.

At the front door I encoutered two of the literally hundreds of elephants that seem to occupy almost every corner of the building (including the soft furnishings!)

The cosy welcoming lobby …

Cutlers are known to have been practising their craft in London from at least the 2nd or 3rd century AD. Indeed, the word ‘cutler’ is derived from the Latin ‘cutellarius’ through the Old French ‘coutelier’ and signifies a maker or seller of knives and weapons with a cutting edge. Although cutlers traded in all manner of cutting instruments, it was their skill at producing fighting weapons that brought them wealth and prosperity. From earliest times until the end of the 16th century, with wars in France and internal civil wars, the demand for edged weapons was both constant and profitable. Only later did the emphasis shift from implements of war to cutlery and other domestic wares such as razors and scissors.

On 4th December 1416, the year following the battle of Agincourt, Henry V granted to the Company its first Royal Charter. This can be no coincidence, for the King had assembled his army in haste, and this was the only Livery Company to which he granted a Charter. One can speculate that the grant may have been made in part payment for arms supplied.

Stained glass in the entrance hall representing the granting of the Charter …

The Company continued to prosper, and in 1515 it was ordained that they should be placed 18th in the order of precedence of the City Companies, where they remain to this day. Over the years various monarchs have cancelled and reissued the Charter; the one under which the Company operates today was granted by James I in 1606 …

A ‘House of the Cutlers’ was recorded in 1285, just off Cheapside. By the early 15th century they had moved to a building on Cloak Lane, near Cannon Street. In 1660 their hall was in dire need of a rebuild, therefore the money was raised and the hall rebuilt on the same site. The final bills were paid in June 1666 only for the hall to be destroyed in the Great Fire of London three months later

Rebuilding started once again and the next hall was finished in 1670. Their bad luck continued however as, in 1882, the site was compulsorily acquired by the Metropolitan and District Railway Company and the hall was knocked down. This is when they moved to their current site and had their new hall built. The new Hall was designed by Mr. T. Tayler Smith, the Company’s Surveyor, and came into use on March 7th 1888. Above the door is the Cutlers’ Company French motto – To Succeed through good faith

The coat of arms displays three sets of crossed swords, a reference to their trade …

At the top is an elephant with a castle on its back. This is a heraldic symbol representing strength, but also a nod to the ivory that would have once used in the handles of their cutlery. Thankfully, of course, the use of ivory today is illegal.

Their string of bad luck fortunately came to an end in World War Two. The Hall amazingly managed to survive the bombs of the Blitz that flattened much of the area around it. It was more or less just Cutlers’ Hall and St Paul’s Cathedral that survived in this corner of the City. A high explosive bomb did destroy the entire building next to it on the 10th May 1941, bringing down the hall’s North wall. The damage however was repaired and the hall brought back into use …

My tour of the building was conducted by Beadle Tiago Lucas whose enthusiasm and vast knowledge of the building and the Company made this a real treat. Space doesn’t allow me to repeat all I saw and learnt here so here are some highlights.

Every December brings the traditional ‘Feast of the Boar’s Head’, commemorated here in this painting …

… and by this chap who greets you on the way up the stairs …

At the foot of the stairs …

The Hall is home to a number of very interesting collections.

Graham duHeaume excavated nearly 900 knives from the foreshore of the River Thames between 1970 and 1986. He generously donated the bulk of his collection to the Company in 2020 …

Examples of beautifully carved handles and, in the drawers beneath, the Company also possesses a fine collection of City of London, Livery and Guild-related medals and badges from their origins in the 17th. century to the present day …

You can view the collections in detail online here.

Presentation swords (with our reflection, whoops!) …

This exhibit tells a story …

Swords belonging to Viscount Montgomery of Alamein and The Duke of Cambridge …

Along with the latter’s interesting history …

A sword, said to have belonged to the son of King Edward III – Edward of Woodstock – better known as The Black Prince …

The magnificent Livery Hall, its main feature being its Victorian hammer beam roof …

Mounted high on the end wall above the canopy hangs a Barge Banner used for the Lord Mayor’s procession in 1763 when the Lord Mayor was Alderman Bridgen, a Cutler. The banner depicts the Arms of the Company and the City, Britannia, the Wand of Mercury, Roman Fasces and the Wand of Aesculapius …

The representation of the Stuart Arms is believed to date from about 1670-88 and to have been carved by a contemporary of Grinling Gibbons, who for a time resided in the Company’s premises at the ‘Belle Sauvage’ Inn on Ludgate Hill …

The hall has a fantastic selection of stained glass, for example cutlers going about their trade …

And Masters’ Coats of Arms from earlier Halls …

Right back to the seventeenth century, in fact …

Along with some vandalism, where an 18th century member has scratched his name on the glass, maybe using a diamond on a ring …

Not to be forgotten is the fact that charitable giving is an incredibly important part of the Company’s overall purpose and you can read more about this here. Also, you can use this link to read more about the annual Contemporary Cutlery Design competition along with images of winning designs. My favourite is the 2021 winner Hand by Anli Hou

I enjoyed my visit enormously. The relatively small size of the Hall means it manages to perform a difficult trick. It is not only friendly and intimate, but also suitably impressive, representing the long and prestigious history of the Company.

You can read more about the Company and the Hall (which is available for hire) here.

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The Heroes of Postman’s Park.

You only need to visit the Watts Memorial to Heroic Self Sacrifice in Postman’s Park to see evidence of the dangers that people were exposed to in Victorian times.

Here is the man we have to thank for this window on the past …

George Frederic Watts was a famous Victorian artist and this picture is a self-portrait. He first suggested the memorials we see today in 1887 but the idea was not taken up until 1898 when the vicar of St Botolph’s church offered him this site in Postman’s Park. There Watts’ ambition to commemorate ‘likely to be forgotten heroes’ came to fruition and when the park was officially opened on 30 July 1900 there were already four tablets in place.

Sixty two people feature on the memorial today which is housed in a wooden loggia …

I find that their stories still evoke a range of emotions, particularly ones of sadness and curiosity, which left me wanting to know more about these people, their lives and the manner of their deaths. There are also clues as to the nature of society and work at that time along with the quality of healthcare.

We are reminded, for example, that horses played a tremendous part in work practices, transport, leisure and, sadly, war. It’s estimated, for example, that there were about 3.3 million horses in late Victorian Britain and in 1900 about a million of these were working horses. Of the 62 people commemorated here, five died as a result of an incident involving horses and I shall write about two of them.

Here is the first mention of horses on the wall …

William Drake earned his living as a carriage driver and on this occasion his passenger was one of the most famous sopranos of her day, a lady called Thérèse Tietjens. The breaking of the carriage pole caused panic among the horses and they reared out of control. In fighting to control them, Drake received a severe kick to his right knee which subsequently resulted in the septicaemia that led to his death on April 8th. A message was passed to the coroner at the inquest that ‘those dependent on the deceased would be amply cared for by Madame Tietjens’. Notwithstanding this, Drake was buried at the expense of the parish in a common grave in Brompton Cemetery, although there is evidence that his widow did receive an annuity from somewhere.

Elizabeth Boxall died after being kicked by a runaway carthorse as she pulled a small child out of its way …

Her brave act actually took place in July 1887 but over the next eleven months poor Elizabeth’s health deteriorated. Part of her leg was amputated in September and a further part (up to her hip) in January 1888, her condition being complicated by a diagnosis of cancer. Her parents were distraught by her death and the way she had been treated by the medical profession – for example, the first amputation was carried out without her or her parents’ permission. ‘They regularly butchered her at that hospital’ her father exclaimed at the inquest and the jury found that shock from the second operation was the cause of death. No one from the hospital attended the inquest but the House Governor at the London Hospital disputed the finding in a letter to the press.

Still on a medical theme, the highly contagious infection known as diptheria features twice on the memorials. Now extremely rare due to vaccination programmes, it was once a frequent killer of small children and also posed a danger to physicians such as Samuel Rabbeth …

I have been able to locate a picture of him thanks to the excellent London Walking Tours blog…

Dr Samuel Rabbeth (1858 – 1884) from The Illustrated London News 15th November 1884
Copyright, The British Library Board

On October 10th the doctor was treating a four year old patient who was in danger of asphyxiation as diptheria often resulted in a membrane blocking the airways. The standard treatment of tracheotomy had been performed but to no avail and Rabbeth performed the more risky procedure of sucking on the tracheotomy tube to remove the obstruction. Unfortunately in doing so he contracted the infection himself and died on 20th October (not the 26th as shown on the plaque). There was some (fairly muted) criticism of his actions by doctors who believed he acted recklessly, although from the most honourable of motives.

He has a fine gravestone in Barnes Cemetery which gives details of his personal professional history and the circumstances of his death …

Dr Lucas was infected as a result of an unfortunate accident …

He was in the process of administering an anaesthetic to a child with diptheria in order that a tracheotomy could be carried out. The child coughed or sneezed in his face but, instead of delaying to clean himself up, which may have endangered the child’s life, he continued and as a result became infected. He died within a week.

I haven’t been able to find an image of him or his final resting place but a poem written in his memory was published in a number of newspapers and you can read it in full here.

Thomas Griffin was engaged to be married on 16 April 1899 and on 11 April he had travelled to Northampton to discuss arrangements with his family and then back home to Battersea for work the next day. He expected that by the end of the week he would be married, but that was not to be, and by the end of the following day he was dead …

An inquest on 17 April was told that, after an explosion in the refinery boiler room, the door had been closed and the men told to keep out. Griffin, who had been evacuated to safety, suddenly cried out ‘My mate! My mate!’ and before anyone could stop him had disappeared into the boiler room. Terribly scalded all over his body he died later that day. The coroner lamented that …

… the conduct of a man like him deserves to be recorded. No doubt there are heroes in everyday life, but they do not come to the front and so we do not hear of them.

Unbeknown to the coroner, Watts had been collecting newspaper cuttings of heroic acts for years and added Griffin’s story to the growing archive. So it came to pass that Thomas Griffin was among the first four people to be commemorated upon the newly opened memorial.

And finally …

One might get the impression that this gentleman was particularly worthy of recognition because the person he saved was not only a stranger but also a foreigner. This would be a shame if it detracts from a very brave act and a tragic one also since, according to Cambridge’s brother Royston, John need not have perished. He told the Nottingham Evening Post

My brother, who was a very good swimmer, saw while bathing an unknown person drowning, and swam out to her assistance. The bathing boat rescued the lady, and the other bather, but the boatmen declined to go out again, although we implored them to do so, and offered them payment, until they were ordered out by officials. It was then, of course, too late.

I have written in great detail about the following four heroes in an earlier blog which you can find (along with pictures of three of them) here

I am indebted for the background research used in this blog to the historian John Price and his incredibly interesting book Heroes of Postman’s Park – Heroic Self-Sacrifice in Victorian London. You will find details of how to purchase your copy here.

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Another East End stroll – from anarchists to art nouveau.

For this expedition I got off the train at Aldgate and walked east along Whitechapel High Street.

The area is being transformed out of all recognition with massive refurbishment and redevelopment taking place on the south side. The north side of the street, however, still has its narrow cobbled alleys and iconic places like the Whitechapel Gallery.

The first alley I came across had no name but held the promise of some street art …

I wasn’t disappointed …

This next alley does have a name and is the home of a delightful project …

Look at these brilliant illustrations referencing the local area …

And it stretches right across the arched roof …

I see capitalist consumption alongside anarchist freedom just before I head down Angel Alley …

Freedom – a light at the end of the tunnel …

Some wall postings along the way …

The Freedom Press was founded way back in 1888 and this is their bookshop …

The wall of heroes …

Appropriate merchandise is available on their website

Back on the High Street, I don’t recall seeing one of these before …

Then one comes to a wonderful institution, The Whitechapel Art Gallery. It grew from the high-minded vision of the Reverend Samuel Barnett and his social reformer wife Henrietta. They believed that art would lift the spirits of the East End poor, counteracting the ‘paralysing and degrading sights of our streets’. It was opened in 1901 and designed by the brilliant architect Charles Harrison Townsend …

The Gallery’s history is a history of firsts: in 1939 Picasso’s masterpiece, Guernica was displayed there on its first and only visit to Britain; in 1958 the Gallery presented the first major show in Britain of seminal American abstract expressionist Jackson Pollock; and in 1970 and 1971 the first shows of David Hockney, Gilbert & George and Richard Long were staged to great acclaim.

Turning now to the classic Art Nouveau building itself, the rectangular space between the turrets was originally intended to be covered with a mosaic frieze, but this proved too expensive. In 2012, however, the acclaimed artist Rachel Whiteread created a beautiful substitute. The work was Whiteread’s first ever permanent public commission in the UK.

The Gallery’s towers each feature a Tree of Life. Their brochure explains that, for this new work of art, Whiteread has cast their leaves in bronze to create an exhilarating flurry across the frieze. Four reliefs, casts of windows, stand as reminders of previous architectural interventions. Inspired by the tenacious presence of urban plants like buddlea, which the artist calls ‘Hackney weed’, Whiteread has covered the leaves and branches in gold leaf, making them part of London’s rooftop repertoire of gilded angels, heraldic animals and crests.

Apart from visiting the Gallery, there are other advertised opportunities to better yourself …

Crossing to the south side of the road, I was fascinated by this old house and its wooden shutters …

It has an 18th century look about it but I haven’t been able to find out more.

And finally to this little park …

Formerly known as St Mary’s Park, it is the site of the old 14th-century white church, St Mary Matfelon, from which the area of Whitechapel gets its name. This is its 17th century incarnation …

All that now remains of the old church is the floor plan .

The area was renamed Altab Ali Park in 1998 in memory of Altab Ali, a 25-year-old Bangladeshi Sylheti clothing worker. He was murdered on 4 May 1978 in Adler Street by three teenage boys as he walked home from work. Ali’s murder was one of the many racist attacks that came to characterise the East End at that time.

At the entrance to the park is an arch created by David Petersen. It was developed as a memorial to Altab and other victims of racist attacks. The arch incorporates a complex Bengali-style pattern, meant to show the merging of different cultures in east London …

A few grave markers from the old church have survived. This one (belonging to the Maddock family) is very grand, with its button-lidded top, the tomb ‘looks exactly like an enormous soup-tureen for a family of giants with a rather pretentious taste in crockery’ …

For more information I turned to the Spitalfields Life blog and an entry by the historian Gillian Tindall. She writes: ‘The Maddocks … were prosperous timber merchants just off Cable St. Into the tomb, between 1774 and 1810, went Nathan Maddock and his wife Elizabeth, both only in middle life, a daughter of thirteen, a sister-in-law of twenty-five, and her son when he was seventeen. It is a relief to find that Richard Maddock (who did not actually live in Whitechapel any longer but grandly in St James) was seventy when he died, and his sister seventy-nine. A James Maddock died aged nineteen, but that same year another James in the same family was negotiating the deeds of land in the area on which he intended to build and he appears to have lived so long that the tomb was full before it could accommodate him’.

These markers are more modest …

Finally, there’s a very impressive water fountain alongside the park …

The inscription says it was ‘removed from the church railings and erected on present site AD 1879’ …

It was great to still find some character in this area despite the wholesale redevelopment.

If you would like to follow me on Instagram here is the link …

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