Walking the City of London

Category: Architecture Page 1 of 89

The extraordinary Fitzrovia Chapel.

I went west again last week with a view to visiting some interesting places of worship having now, over the years, written about all the City of London churches (you’ll find my earlier blogs under the Category ‘Religion’).

The outside of the Fitzrovia Chapel is decoration-free red brick, offering not a clue as to what awaits you when you enter …

Nothing quite prepared me for the effect the chapel had on me when I walked in …

A wonderful sense of peace and tranquility. I immediately stepped forward, took a seat close to the altar, and sat in silent contemplation …

For over 100 years, the chapel served as a place of solace, prayer and rest for staff and patients of the Middlesex Hospital and their families. It was always open between services, and groups of different faiths (and none) from within the hospital gathered in the tiny building throughout the working week. Marriages between medical staff, or between very ill patients and their partners, took place here, as well as concerts, memorials, seasonable celebrations and choir rehearsals.

Notes on the chapel website tell us that many present-day visitors have spent time here before, whether as a medical professional, family member or patient and the memories they share contain moving descriptions of chapel life in the past. Doctors or nurses visiting to find quiet after a difficult shift; porters sitting quietly in the candlelight reflecting on a day’s work; mothers taking their first trip out of the ward with their new-borns; or families and friends returning to the chapel time after time while caring for their loved ones. This tiny chapel provided a space for the population of the Middlesex Hospital to attend to their interior lives — their needs, hopes, griefs and celebrations were routinely observed beneath its starry ceiling …

The Middlesex Hospital was founded in 1745 and, by 1757, had moved to a larger, purpose-built site on Mortimer Street, which would be its home until closure in 2008.

The hospital in 2007, just before demolition …

The three acre site in September 2008, with the little chapel preserved amid the desolation …

The hospital was originally built without a dedicated chapel. Prayers and religious services took place in the simplicity of its wood-panelled Board Room. But in the 1880s one of the hospital’s surgeons, George Lawson, suggested that the existing ‘dead-house’ could be converted into a new chapel. Lawson recommended an architect, and offered money towards the project. Within a decade sufficient funds had been raised to erect a hospital chapel on the site of the old mortuary and post-mortem room. An important tranche of funding came from a lady governor in memory of the hospital’s Chairman, Alexander Ross. The chapel’s main carcase was up and roofed by 1890, but the interior decoration took longer to complete. A commitment had been made that no money raised for the care of patients should be spent on the chapel, so the interior was completed gradually over the next 50 years, as donations large and small permitted. Appeals were run, musical concerts performed, bequests arranged, and funds for memorials collected.

John Loughborough Pearson, the architect behind Two Temple Place, was commissioned to design the chapel. Construction started in 1891 when Pearson was already near the end of his life and, after John’s death in 1897, his son Frank took over.

The fabric of the chapel was allowed to decline in the closing decades of the hospital and a £2 million restoration of the chapel was carried out by conservation architects Caroe & Partners between 2013 and 2015. It involved improvements to external brickwork, and extensive work on the mosaic ceiling, which had suffered greatly due to water ingress. The external roof had aged poorly, penetrated by rainwater which damaged mosaics and several marble panels. In some places, up to 70% of the ceiling tiles required re-gilding, and extensive scaffolding was erected throughout the chapel to enable restorers to access and restore designs.

King Charles III delivered his 2024 Christmas message from the chapel, a significant break from tradition marking the first time in over a decade it was filmed outside a royal residence …

The choice highlighted his focus on healthcare, community and unity following his and the Princess of Wales’s cancer treatment.

Here are images of some of the features of the chapel I captured for the blog.

The font in the stunning south west apse …

It’s carved from a single block of green marble …

It contains a Greek palindrome copied from the Cathedral of St Sophia in Constantinople:

Νίψον ἀνομήματα, μὴ μόναν ὄψιν
(Wash the sins, not only the face)

This inscription can also be found on the font in St Martin within Ludgate on Ludgate Hill in the City …

You can read more about this church in my blog of July 2022.

The aumbry was given in memory of Prince Francis of Teck who died in 1910 and was the younger brother of Queen Mary. It features a carving of the Pelican in her Piety, a common image of redemption in ecclesiastical design …

There is also some very good stained glass …

Rudyard Kipling’s body rested here in January 1936 following his death at the adjacent hospital before his funeral at Westminster Abbey …

In the entrance narthex, 85 plaques honour donors, distinguished hospital staff, and staff who died on duty, with many dating from the late 19th and early 20th centuries …

My eyes were drawn to this plaque …

Beck became a consultant neurosurgeon at the hospital in 1947, making her the first female consultant at a London teaching hospital that did not admit women students. At Middlesex, she was the first woman and the first neurosurgeon on staff, as well as being the only consultant neurosurgeon in western Europe and North America at the time …

In 1952 she received attention in the press for performing lifesaving surgery on A. A. Milne, the author of Winnie-the Pooh two months after he suffered a brain haemorrhage.

You can read more about the chapel here. And here are some contributions by two of my favourite bloggers: A London Inheritance and Living London History.

On my church agenda was the Grade 1 listed All Saints Church, Margaret Street, a Victorian masterpiece …

I shall aim to write more about it next week along with another church of similar vintage I visited last week in my western travels. It boasted a model of the building made of matchsticks …

It was created, the notice says, ‘by a talented member of the choir’. Bless.

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Mudlarking at the wonderful Watermen’s Hall.

Last Saturday was a lovely day – sunny weather and a mudlarking exhibition which also gave me the opportunity to visit the splendid Watermen’s Hall.

First of all, here are images of some of the fascinating items discovered by the mudlarking community on the Thames foreshore.

Surely this item was disposed of in the river after it was used in some nefarious activity …

I can imagine people feeling in their pocket or around a chain and thinking ‘Oh no, I must have dropped it in the river!’ These keys may have been lost getting on or off a river vessel …

Various collections on display …

I have often wondered where Nemo ended up …

My little personal collection, gifted to me by my friend Penny, a registered mudlark …

Now a little about Watermen’s Hall and the watermen themselves.

The earliest mention of the first Hall of the Company of Watermen was in 1603. At the time of this view of 1647 it was located at Cold Harbour, to the east of the modern Charing Cross, a mansion that had been acquired from Earl Gilbert …

It was destroyed in the Great Fire of 1666 along with the Company’s records. The Company moved to the present Hall at St. Mary at Hill, upon its completion in 1780 …

The coat of arms …

A magnificent door with the arms of the company incorporated in the knocker …

The arms indoors above a fireplace. The Latin motto reads At Command of our Superiors

For centuries, the quickest and most convenient way to travel within the City, or cross the river, or east or west from London, was by water. London Bridge was the only dry crossing over the River Thames in the immediate London area until the early 18th century but it was narrow and congested. The roads into and out of the capital were in a poor state. It was easier to take a ferry, or a wherry rowed by a waterman.

The full name of the institution is ‘The Company of Watermen and Lightermen of the River Thames’. Those who transported people along and over the river were known as watermen, whereas those who transported goods, particularly from larger ships to shore, were lightermen, i.e. they were making the larger ships ‘lighter’ by relieving them of their goods.

Thames wherries depicted in 19th century illustrations…

As you enter the building, there are various backboards from old wherries on display …

Thames lightermen around 1861 …

Lightermen posing in the middle of a dock in 1946 …

Prior to the early 16th century it was pretty much a free-for-all, but in 1514 the government started regulating the fares on the river. In 1555 governors were appointed to oversee the regulation and as a result the Watermen’s Company was born. The lightermen joined in 1700.

The hallway …

Before climbing the stairs, you encounter a ship made of mutton bone, said to have been constructed by veterans from the Battle of Trafalgar …

Nice stained glass …

In the hall is the portrait of a man called John Taylor (1578-1653) …

He was a waterman on the Thames but was also a clerk and wrote poetry, with over 150 publications in his lifetime …

In 1613 he became a waterman to the King, for employment in ceremonial occasions. An eccentric character, he dubbed himself the ‘King’s water poet’. In 1622, possibly to make a statement about a lack of appreciation for the watermen amongst Londoners, he sailed along the Thames a boat made from paper and two inflated pigs bladders, propelled along by two oars made of cane and dried fish.

After the civil war and the Puritans seized power in England, Cromwell famously banned the festivities around Christmas. They believed there should be special church service and definitely no drinking and merry-making.  In 1653 John Taylor published a treatise arguing vehemently in favour of the celebrations. It is said that he was the man to persuade King Charles II in exile, when he was restored to the throne, to swiftly reinstate it. The Company therefore call him the man that saved Christmas.

Some even believe that John Taylor became so associated with Christmas that when the Victorians created the classic image of Father Christmas that we think of today, they were inspired by the red coat and ruff in the painting above. You can read much more about this fascinating man here in a Spitalfields Life article by Gillian Tindall.

In 1715 the London-based Irish comic actor and theatre manager, Thomas Doggett, founded the ‘wager’ of a sculling race for Thames Watermen to celebrate the anniversary of the accession to the throne of King George I.

Mr Doggett …

The race was open to six watermen who had completed their apprenticeship in the previous twelve months. It took place between Swan Stairs at London Bridge and the White Swan Tavern at Chelsea, a distance of about five miles, rowing against the tide.

Continuing to this day, Doggett’s Coat and Badge stands as the revered prize for the world’s oldest continuous rowing race. This prestigious honour is fiercely contested by up to six apprentice watermen. The challenging 4-mile 5-furlong (7.44 km) race navigates the upstream course from London Bridge to Cadogan Pier, Chelsea, passing beneath a total of eleven bridges.

The coveted winner’s prize is a traditional watermen’s red coat adorned with a silver badge, featuring the horse of the House of Hanover and the word “Liberty” in homage to George I’s accession to the throne …

All participants completing the course receive a miniature Doggett’s Badge for their lapel in a ceremony at Watermen’s Hall – silver for the winner and bronze for the others. The Fishmongers’ Company extends monetary prizes to the rowing clubs involved, with £1,000 for the winner’s club, £600 for second place, £400 for third, and £200 for fourth.

Coats and badges on display …

Along with the beautiful uniform of the late Queen’s Bargemaster …

Until the middle of the nineteenth century the Sovereign regularly travelled on the river Thames, either on State occasions or between the Royal Palaces of Windsor, Westminster, Hampton Court, Greenwich and the Tower of London.

The Royal Barge Gloriana, Queen Elizabeth II’s Royal Barge presented to her at her Diamond Jubilee in 2012 …

The men who rowed the Royal Barges up and down the river Thames were known as Royal Watermen. The Sovereign today still retains 24 Royal Watermen under the command of what is now the King’s Bargemaster, thereby continuing one of the most ancient appointments in the Royal Household. The original number of 48 was halved by King Edward VII.

Watermen did not have an untarnished reputation, not least because of their foul speech, or ‘water language’. The Company of Watermen derived part of its income from fining freemen for bad behaviour and language. As Taylor put it: “I must confess that there are many rude uncivil fellows in our Company.” There is a well-known cartoon drawn by Thomas Rowlandson, made in 1812 as part of his Miseries of London series. A group of watermen are gathered at Wapping Old Stairs where they are accosting a plump lady, each attempting to gain her business …

Some of the art and treasure on display …

The Watermen and Lightermen are officially a company ‘without livery’. They are recognised by the City but they do not ‘clothe liverymen’ and therefore do not participate in the annual election of the Sheriffs or Lord Mayor of the City. 

They do however take part in many of the City’s ceremonies and traditions. For example they march at the front of the procession in the annual Lord Mayor’s Show. This is because originally it was largely a river procession. Incidentally, that is why we still say that parades are made up of ‘floats’ …

If you want to experience this wonderful building yourself, there are some dates coming up for afternoon teas and you will find more information here. You will find their general website here.

For more reading I recommend the great Living London History blog along with this History of London post.

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Some brilliant AI along with old City images and Spring flowers.

It’s true that some applications of artificial intelligence should be treated with caution but have a look at these screenshots from an AI generated ‘Tour of London’ in the 15oos.

Old London Bridge …

Walking across old London Bridge, it doesn’t appear to be over water at all due to the houses and businesses on either side …

St Paul’s Cathedral before the spire was struck by lightning …

The Tower of London …

I found the images fascinating and they come with a nice commentary. Here’s a link to the youtube version. If the link doesn’t work, just Google A Tour of London in the 1500s.

Thinking of old London, I had a quick dive back into my three volumes of Wonderful London to see if I could find some pictures I hadn’t used before …

The books were published in 1929 and therefore illustrate London and its people in the short period between the wars.

Dr Johnson on the Strand facing Fleet Street …

A more recent image shows the Second World War shrapnel scars on the east side of St Clement Danes church …

Amazingly, these guys are practising their putting on the roof of Adelaide House just north of London Bridge, and it’s obviously real grass, hence the roller in the background …

Here’s the building, I think it’s covered in scaffolding at present due to refurbishment …

These are poignant images of the London Fire Brigade in action before the War.

Putting out a fire in Moor Lane. All these buildings were subsequently destroyed in wartime bombing …

A warehouse blaze …

Their experience was invaluable during wartime raids. During the 57 nights of relentless bombing (now known as The Blitz) 997 firefighters lost their lives of which 327 were based in London. Many were part-time volunteers from the Auxiliary Fire Service – ordinary people doing extraordinary things. They were shopkeepers, factory workers, teachers – men and women who put on a uniform, picked up a hose, and ran towards the flames.

‘Palatial’ Salisbury House …

Still there …

A ferocious lion guards the London Wall entrance …

John Milton on his original plinth before he was blown off by the blast from a nearby bomb …

So undignified …

His new home in St Giles Cripplegate, the church in the first picture above. It was gutted in the Blitz but is now beautifully restored …

His original plinth today. In the background to the right you can see a portion of the old City wall bastion

Here it is from another angle …

As can be seen from the 1920s picture below, the top of the bastion was level with, and part of, the St Giles churchyard. I suspect the lower part was subsequently revealed by Second World War bombing …

A little ‘secret’ garden at St Giles …

Life on the canals …

For more images and stories, have a look at my blog on the London Canal Museum

Fleet Street in 1926 and 1880 …

Hard to believe that the railway bridge blocking the view of St Paul’s Cathedral wasn’t demolished until 1990 …

Just before demolition …

And now …

One of my favourite pictures and captions, the ‘Cats-meat man’ …

Horses quenching their thirst at a Metropolitan Drinking Fountain Association trough …

Read more about the Association and its history in my blog Philanthropic Fountains. A trough on London Wall …

St Batholomew the Great then ..

And now …

A 1915 image. Rahere’s tomb protected from bombing by sandbags during the First World War …

I visited and wrote in detail about this amazing church about five years ago and you can read my blog here.

The Old Bailey …

You can read about my Old Bailey tour here.

Here’s the picture I took then of Elizabeth Fry’s statue …

Help for the homeless and disabled …

The judgmental caption referring to idle vagrants shirking all work made me cringe a bit.

Scenes and captions resonant of the times …

Presumably the top two pictures are intended to illustrate ‘before’ and ‘after’. I can’t help but wonder what the little chap was thinking when the second photo was taken.

Wembley Stadium ‘…like an ants’ nest carelessly broken open’. And the commentary below the image, comparing the stadium with the Colosseum (‘…exceeding it in size by one half’) and the people crushed to death in the crowd on Cup Final day a reminder of ‘the decay of Roman morals’!

Buses old and new in the 1920s …

And now, outside Cannon Street Station …

Finally, some Spring pics of nature to cheer us up.

Andrewes House Car Park …

St Giles Magnolias …

Opposite Salters’ Hall …

Silk Street …

In Postman’s Park …

Finally, ‘lest we forget’, when you next visit Postman’s Park, do pause and observe the sundial …

It features the inscription, ‘In loving memory and recognition of the self-sacrifice of the Barts Health NHS Trust staff who lost their lives whilst caring for patients during the Covid-19 pandemic.’

The idea to install a memorial in the Park came from Helen Parker, an A&E consultant and the deputy medical director of Newham Hospital, who spent time there during lockdown. She said: ‘NHS staff surrendered so much during the pandemic including time with loved ones and relationships. It was the ultimate example of self-sacrifice and this is a fitting place to remember them.’

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