Walking the City of London

Category: Art Page 1 of 31

Queen Elizabeth the First at the Philip Mould Gallery, including the tragic story of Mary Queen of Scots.

Once again I have enthusiastically ventured west, this time to visit a stunning exhibition at the Philip Mould Gallery on Pall Mall …

Running from 14 May to 10 July 2026, this display highlights the way court painting became a true instrument of political power, propaganda and the construction of the image of the ‘Virgin Queen’.

The Catalogue states: Elizabeth I: Queen and Court explores how portraiture shaped one of Britain’s most iconic reigns. Featuring outstanding Tudor works drawn from private collections, the exhibition includes the earliest surviving life-size, full-length portrait of Queen Elizabeth I, alongside portraits of some of the key figures from her close circle of courtiers and confidantes. These rarely seen paintings reveal how portraiture functioned as a tool of power and was used to project authority, secure allegiance, and, in rare cases, register dissent.

I was delighted to see that the exhibition also included a picture of Mary Queen of Scots, whose death warrant was signed by Elizabeth herself. Later in the blog I shall write about their relationship.

Firstly, however, I am going to include some images of pictures in the exhibition along with the descriptive labelling.

And now the tragic story of Mary Queen of Scots, starting with a rare portrait painted in France shortly after her execution …

‘Tonight, after dinner, I have been advised of my sentence: I am to be executed like a criminal at eight in the morning’.

So wrote Mary Queen of Scots to Henry III, King of France, at two in the morning on 8th February 1587 from her place of imprisonment, Fotheringhay Castle. You can find an image of the letter and a translation here.

Mary was determined to die a Catholic martyr’s death and conducted herself accordingly. She entered the hall dressed in black with a white veil carrying her ivory crucifix and Latin prayer book. Her ladies then disrobed her to reveal her satin petticoat and bodice of deep crimson – the liturgical colour of Catholic martyrdom. It took three strokes of the axe to sever her head and, according to some accounts, her last words were those of her motto ‘In my end is my beginning’.

None of the three further images of Mary are part of the Mould Gallery exhibition, but I am using them to help tell her story.

A Victorian painter’s view of her being led to her execution …

An illustration of the event itself (National Gallery of Scotland) …

Her life shouldn’t have ended like this.

Elizabeth I and Mary Queen of Scots were cousins, both descended from Henry VII and his wife, Elizabeth of York. Born in 1533, Elizabeth was their grandchild, the daughter of Henry VIII by his second marriage to Anne Boleyn. Nine years younger, Mary was Henry VII and Elizabeth of York’s great grandchild, the granddaughter of their elder daughter Margaret by her first marriage to James IV of Scotland. Mary was the only surviving child of James V and Mary of Guise.

After a tortuous time, militarily, politically and personally, Mary had fled to England from Scotland in 1568, asking for her cousin Elizabeth’s protection. Initially their relationship was cordial with Elizabeth writing to her as follows: “Madam, I treat you as my daughter, and assure you that if I had one, I could wish for her nothing better than I desire for you… the one for whom one wishes the greatest good that may be possible in this world.”

However, as a focus for Catholic rebellion in England, with a claim to the English throne, she was to spend the next nineteen years effectively under house arrest and would never see Scotland again. Subsequent plotting and deceptions would lead her to the executioner’s block. Although found guilty of complicity in plots to assassinate Elizabeth, Mary saw herself as dying for her faith rather than politics.

Mary in captivity by Nicholas Hilliard circa 1578 …

Imprisonment took its toll on Mary and ultimately, and fatally, she became associated with ‘The Babington Plot’, a plan to free her and murder Elizabeth, which meant she was guilty of treason. The plot was discovered by Elizabeth’s spymaster Sir Francis Walsingham, whose portrait is on display in the Gallery …

Even before then, Elizabeth wanted her dead in such a way that she was not personally implicated and so was reluctant to issue a death warrant. Her hesitation in executing Mary was partly informed by a horror of taking direct responsibility for killing a fellow queen and a close relative but there were also potentially disastrous political implications. Despite eventually signing the death warrant she decided not to issue it until she had first put pressure on Mary’s gaoler to take Mary’s life.

The next development involved another member of Elizabeth’s court, William Cecil, Lord Burghley, her chief adviser for most of her reign. She saw him as a kindred spirit and consequently gave him the nickname ‘Sir Spirit’. His portrait in the exhibition emanates authority …

Burghley and his fellow councillors issued the warrant without the Queen’s knowledge and Mary was duly executed on 8 February. Elizabeth was livid, because Mary’s death would now, inevitably, be laid at her door. Burghley was temporarily banished from the royal presence, and William Davison, another councillor, was deprived of office, tried, imprisoned and fined. However, for Elizabeth the matter had worked out rather well. By acting independently, Burghley and his colleagues had given the Queen what she wanted. Not only had they succeeded in ridding her of the threat posed by Mary, but they had also ensured that she could deny direct responsibility for Mary’s death.

The expected massive Catholic military retaliation from Europe failed to materialise. The court slowly returned to normal, and Elizabeth recognised that Burghley and the Council had acted logically to secure the realm. She allowed him to return to his duties at court and the Privy Council and he went on to remain Elizabeth’s closest and most influential minister for another decade, shaping English policy right up until his death in 1598

Burghley’s son Robert‘s portrait is also part of the exhibition. He had obviously inherited his father’s wiliness and political acumen …

I have only written about a small part of this fantastic free exhibition. You can read more here in the beautifully illustrated and informative exhibition catalogue.

You can also do what I did and mooch around the rest of the gallery. I liked this endearing 1832 portrait of a young boy by Margaret Sarah Carpenter

In other news, I took this picture of the King’s Birthday flypast from my balcony …

And here’s an image taken from one of the planes when they were almost directly over my head. My flat is in the block at the bottom left hand corner of the picture and the building with the green roof is the church of St Giles’ without Cripplegate …

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https://www.instagram.com/london_city_gent

It’s Gilbert & George time again!

It had been a while since I visited the G&G Gallery so I made up for that last Sunday.

Here are a few images of what’s on view.

Trigger warning: It’s Gilbert & George! Some exhibits have sexual connotations.

The sweet story of George Crompton …

You can find more about the Gilbert and George Centre here.

In other news, I had a lovely lunch recently as a guest at the elegant Walbrook Club …

Not many places can boast of owning a hat once worn by Winston Churchill …

You can read more about the Walbrook Club in the excellent Living London History blog.

I also enjoyed a scrumptious lunch at Legado in Shoreditch …

Highly recommended.

Also, recently tucked into Penne with vodka and tomato at Brutto, our favourite restaurant …

Waistline is expanding at a slightly alarming rate!

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https://www.instagram.com/london_city_gent

More Fitzrovia! Including a vampiric Council leader and a freed slave who became a best-selling author.

As promised last week, I’m going to write a little more about my journey ‘west’ to Fitzrovia.

Firstly, I’m grateful to the Fitzrovia Neighbourhood Association for the explanation on their website as to where the name Fitzrovia originated. Here is an extract: Biographer Paul Willetts describes the name Fitzrovia as a “retrospective label applied to a district of central London where, between roughly 1925 and 1950, the pubs, restaurants, cafés, and drinking clubs provided a fashionable rendezvous for a diverse range of writers with a taste for bohemian life. The label, which had passed into common usage by the early 1960s, acknowledged the one-time status of the Fitzroy Tavern, at 16 Charlotte Street, as the area’s pre-eminent venue. Together with Rathbone Place, Charlotte Street forms the crooked spine of Fitzrovia.” You can read more on their very informative and interesting website.

Where is Fitzrovia? A screenshot from the Association website …

I wrote about the beautiful Fitzrovia Chapel in last week’s blog and here are some more aspects of the area that I found interesting.

First up is the Fitzrovia Mural

Here’s the key …

The area was often under threat of redevelopment, so the former leader of the Greater London Council, Horace Cutler, is depicted as a vampire. He was also famous at the time for his bow ties …

The mural started to deteriorate significantly over the years but has now been restored. You can read more about the work here.

The best view is from Whitfield Gardens …

I am indebted to the brilliant blog Ian Visits for the background to this area. There’s much more on his website.

Sitting to the north of the park is a church. The original Congregational Chapel opened in 1756 with a graveyard space to the south. Thanks to being a bit too popular, the original building was demolished and rebuilt in 1890. However, that chapel was destroyed on Palm Sunday 1945 by the last V-2 rocket to fall on London.The current chapel was built in 1957, and was taken over by the American International Church in 1972.

The original church’s graveyard had closed to burials in 1856. It was later bought by the London County Council in 1894, possibly in a deal aligned with the rebuilding of the chapel.

Although former graveyards that are turned into public parks are often lined with graves, the only noticeable one is the very easy to trip over grave for John and Mary Procter, and (in the top left of this picture) a stone plaque marking the decision of local cheese shop owners, Robert and Esther Procter to donate some land here for the public …

Nearby (but now long lost) was the grave of this man, Olaudah Equiano

Born in about 1745, a free man in part of present day Nigeria, at the age of about eleven, Equiano was captured and enslaved. His ownership changed hands several times until one of his owners allowed him to buy his freedom in 1766.  He subsequently travelled widely before settling in London where he became one of the leading lights of the campaign to end slavery …

Equiano was a shrewd businessman and his ‘Interesting Narrative’ was also a major success (it went through nine editions in his lifetime alone) and, when he died in 1797, he left a sum equivalent to about £80,000 at today’s prices to his surviving daughter (his will can be viewed at The National Archives in Kew).

You can read more here.

Just across the road is the magnificent frontage of Heal & Son …

I love the panels displaying the goods and services available …

You can read a fascinating history of the store here. For example, after John Heal the founder died in 1833 his widow renamed the business Fanny Heal & Son!

All Saints Margaret Street is the most well-known church in the area. It is built in the high-Victorian gothic style and is Grade I listed …

The 1841 specification for a ‘Model Church on a large and splendid scale’ specified that:

  • It must be in the Gothic style of the late 13th and early 14th centuries
  • It must be honestly built of solid materials
  • Its ornament should decorate its construction
  • Its artist should be ‘a single, pious and laborious artist alone, pondering deeply over his duty to do his best for the service of God’s Holy Religion

Above all the church must be built so that the ‘Rubricks and Canons of the Church of England may be consistently observed, and the Sacraments rubrically and decently administered’.

My images of this splendid building will give you an idea whether expectations were met.

You can read more about the church’s history and architecture here.

Closer to home, and just across the footbridge between the Barbican Highwalk and Moorfields, Post-it Man is back – and he doesn’t look very happy …

Finally, there are two things happening at the Barbican Centre at the moment that you may like to visit.

Origo at the Sculpture Court …

And In Other Worlds in The Curve …

I’ll probably write about both next week.

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