Walking the City of London

Category: Parks Page 1 of 3

Plaques, plants and pigeons.

Occasionally I find myself drawn to the peaceful Postman’s Park in King Edward Street (EC1A 7BT). In the late 1890s the idea was mooted that the park would be an ideal location for a memorial to ‘ordinary’ and ‘humble’ folk who had lost their lives endeavouring to save the lives of others. Two of its most enthusiastic supporters were the artists George Frederic Watts (1817 – 1904) and his wife Mary (1849 – 1938). There are some nice images of both him and his wife on the National Portrait Gallery website. Here he is  and here his wife Mary. I have written about the memorials before and you can read two of my blogs here and here.

The memorial today in the background behind the sundial …

And the plaque describing a little of its story …

I have written about some of the individuals commemorated here before and for this week’s blog I chose some new ones, starting with Walter Peart and Harry Dean …

On Monday 18 July 1898, at a time when the Great Western Railway ran trains directly from Windsor to Paddington, the 4.15 pulled out normally from Windsor Central Station. The driver was 43-year-old Walter Peart, the fireman 25-year-old Henry Dean.

A portrait of Walter Peart.

A Portrait of Walter Peart (1857 – 1898) From Lloyd’s Weekly Newspaper, 24th July 1898 Copyright, The British Library Board

A portrait of Harry Dean.

A Portrait of Henry Dean (1873 – 1898) From Lloyd’s Weekly Newspaper, 24th July 1898 Copyright, The British Library Board

The train was approaching Acton when suddenly the connecting-rod of the engine shattered. A piece was driven through the casing of the boiler, there was a violent explosion, the train was enveloped in steam and ash, and in the cab piping, fire and cinders were driven into the two men’s faces. They staggered back, but knew that the train was still running and that if it could not be stopped there would be a catastrophic crash. The driver forced himself forward into the inferno to apply the vacuum brake and the train came to a standstill.

On his way to hospital, Peart asked after his ‘poor mate’, who was in a bad way. He himself was not much better, but he made light of his condition saying proudly, ‘’Never mind – I saved the train.” Both men died the next day in St Mary’s Hospital Paddington.

At the inquest the jury criticised the GWR for their use that day of an engine which only normally pulled goods trains; it was not, in their opinion, ‘fit and proper … for drawing express trains’. But they praised the men’s courage in averting ‘a serious catastrophe’.

A locomotive similar to the one involved in the accident …

Driver Peart was 43 and left a wife and five children. Fireman Henry Dean was 25 years old and had recently married. Their dependants were assured that the long-established GWR Provident Society would provide for them. George Goschen, 1st Viscount Goschen, who had previously been Chancellor of the Exchequer and was now the First Lord of the Admiralty, had been a passenger on the train. He was returning from an audience with Queen Victoria at Windsor Castle. He was so impressed by the act of heroism and the men’s conspicuous bravery that he raised a subscription for their widows and children. The Daily Telegraph also started a fund to help their families and the Windsor Express records that there were many local donations, including a number from the officers of the 2nd Scots Guards, who were stationed at Victoria Barracks.

You can read more here in the Friends of the National Railway Museum blog.

The next person I researched was shown on the memorial as Frederick Alfred Croft, but this is a case of a wrong surname as the person who performed the act of heroism memorialised here was actually Frederick Alfred Craft …

We may flinch a bit nowadays at the description of the woman as a ‘lunatic’ but this was common parlance at the time. The lady whose life he saved was Eliza Newman and, although she suffered from delusions, she was considered to be a ‘perfectly harmless lunatic’ and was generally allowed to live outside of an institution. On 11 January a police physician had concluded that she was ‘of unsound mind, though neither suicidal nor dangerous to others’ but nonetheless licensed her to be immediatly committed to the Kent County Asylum near Maidstone. She was accompanied on the journey by a matron from Woolwich, Sarah Wilkinson, and a poor-law relieving officer called Joseph Moore.

Woolwich Arsenal Station at the turn of the 20th century …

When transporting mental patients or prisoners by train it was common practice, for the safety of other passengers, for the party to travel in a single locked compartment. On arrival at the station, Moore went to look for the stationmaster to make arrangements and purchase tickets.

Whilst waiting on the platform Wilkinson discreetly kept hold of the patient’s coat to stop her walking off. Suddenly, at around 5:30 as the train to Plumstead approached, Eliza pulled away with such force that it left a torn piece of material in the nurse’s hand. She then leapt from the platform onto the rails in front of the approaching engine and Inspector Craft, who was on the platform, immediatly followed with the intention of pulling her out of the engine’s path. She escaped, but poor Craft was hit by the offside buffer and cast under the train. He received horrendous injuries and died later that night from shock and blood loss.

The inquest jury encouraged the public to recognise the gallantry of the deceased by providing for his widow and two small children through the subscription fund that Bartholomew the stationmaster had opened. The fund had already received donations to the value of £24 2s, including £20 from the South Eastern Railway Company, and the jurors all agreed to donate their fee, which came to £3 8s.

Incidentally, Frederick and his wife Elizabeth’s son, Frederick junior, initally followed his father into employmemt on the railways, working as a clerk in his late teens and early twenties. He was probably offered the post in lieu of compensation for his father’s death, as was common practice with railway companies.

My third and final story is about this man …

His death was controversial since, after carrying out rescues with extraordinary bravery, Ford died trapped in the wire netting of an escape chute. The Metropolitan Fire Board enquiry found:

“Before he reached the fire three persons had been rescued by the police, who took them down from the second floor window on a builder’s ladder, and on his arrival there were six persons in the third-floor.

He pitched his escape to the left-hand window, and with great difficulty and much exertion and skill succeeded in getting the five persons out safely, the woman in the right-hand window being in the meanwhile rescued by the next escape, and he was in the act of coming down himself when he became enveloped in flame and smoke , which burst from the first-floor window, and, after some struggling in the wire netting, he fell to the pavement.

I have carefully investigated all the circumstances, and I am of the opinion that Ford must have become entangled in some of the netting or other gear aloft, and had to break his way through it in order to clear himself, and that while struggling he got so severely burned that his recovery became hopeless.

It was a work of no ordinary skill and difficulty to save so many persons in the few moments available for the purpose, and when it is mentioned that some of them were very old and crippled, it is no exaggeration to say that it would be impossible to praise too highly Ford’s conduct on this occasion, which has resulted so disastrously to himself.

He leaves his wife and two children – one a daughter aged two years, and the other four months.

Ford was a respectable and trustworthy man, and in all respects and excellent servant to the board.”

Four firemen in front of their fire engine. The Illustrated London News 4 January 1862.

Literally thousands of people lined the streets of London to witness his coffin on its way to Abney Park Cemetery where it was laid to rest alongside the most famous firefighter London had known, Superintendent James Braidwood

According to The Illustrated Police News:-

“…On the coffin were placed the half-burnt tatters of clothing the torn and smoke-begrimed coat being marked with the meshes of the fatal net-work; the badge, with the name of the dead fireman branded on the handle; and the brass helmet, bruised and batterred, and having one long, deep fearful indentation along the side on which the wearer fell headlong. The crushing force of the concussion was terribly apparant in the beating-in of the strong headgear; and it was but too apparent that the metal must have been driven with great violence on the skull..”

The band from ‘E’ division of brigade played the ‘Dead March’ from Saul as it led the cortège, folowed by Ford’s family and two divisions of Metropolitan Police officers. Behind them followed ‘nearly the whole of the fire engines of the brigade, fully manned, each of the men wearing a band of crêpe on his left arm’.

The Metropolitan Board of Works, responsible for the Metropolitan Fire Brigade (MFB), came under intense criticism for the way it treated his widow Emmeline and his two children, Emmeline Junior and Frederick. The Brigade’s 1865 constitution contained a provision for widows whose husbands died on active duty to receive an annuity, but Ford was the first MFB fireman to do so and there was, therefore, no precedent. A figure of £1 a week was decided upon (less than the £1 8s a week he was earning ) and it was stipulated that it should be ‘revisited’ after six months. When the subscription fund for donations raised £1,000 the Board of Works withdrew its pension provision stating that”[the fund] brought to the widow an actually larger income than the pay her husband received when he was living’. In addition to this, his widow and children had to vacate their home in the fire station!

Surely no way to treat a hero.

Five more true heroes from the memorial …

If you want to find out more about them, their stories are told in my book Courage, Crime and Charity in the City of London. Perfect for London lovers and only £10 for over 100 pages in full colour. You can buy it online here or in person at Daunt Books or the Guildhall Gallery shop.

There is a nice small statuette in the middle of the Memorial of Mr Watts himself that was installed in 1905, the year after he died. There was originally a plan to cover it with a protective grille but his widow refused and said the public should be trusted, and she was right …

He holds a scroll on which is inscriber the word HEROES.

For the definitive life histories of the Watts Memorial heroes treat yourself to a copy of John Price’s brilliant book Heroes of Postman’s Park – Heroic Self-Sacrifice in Victorian London.

Many thanks also to Windsor Local History Group and London Walking Tours/Ford the fireman for much of my research material.

And now for some flowers.

On Silk Street, now that the daffodils have gone over, the clever City gardeners have planted appropriately for the tulips to arrive with perfect timing …

Almost ready …

And open!

Cherry Blossom at London Wall Place …

In Postman’s Park (I know I’ve shown some of these before but I like them a lot!) …

The wonderful Handkerchief Tree …

There’s a lovely article about it here, highly recommended.

On my walks of an evening I have occasional pigeon encounters …

I think this chap has an ongoing nest-building project …

I call this one ‘the sentinel’ …

Lonely look-out duty …

Patrolling the medieval wall …

I didn’t know that W H Auden had written a poem about a Roman soldier on duty on the original Roman Wall. Here it is, I love it …

You’ll find it on display in the Barbican Library along with details of the London Verse project …

And, finally, these interesting items of footwear will feature in next week’s blog …

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Finsbury Circus Reborn!

I finally got around to having a walk through Finsbury Circus since it was reclaimed from the Crossrail excavations last year.

The park has two boasts – firstly, that it’s the largest public space in the City, and secondly, that it’s the oldest public park in London. At two acres, the first statement is undoubtedly true. The second, however, is a bit tenuous but I’ll relate the history of the space and you can reach your own conclusion.

Once upon a time, this area was part of the 12th century manor of Finsbury (hence the name). According to the Museum of London archive, archaeological investigations at seven sites within the nearby Finsbury Square area have revealed important evidence for the medieval and post-medieval development of this former marshy area north of the city walls. Evidence was recovered for Finsbury manor house, documented from 1272 and moated by the 14th/15th centuries, and for widespread quarrying and brick manufacturing beyond the manor in the later 15th century, along with dumping from nearby leather workshops in the 15th and 16th centuries.

The 16th century Agas map identifies the area as More Fyeld and, as you can see from this section of the map, it was a public open space where clothes could be laid out to dry …

The dog house, incidentally, was where the Lord Mayor of London kept his hunting dogs.

The area in a wider perspective. Note the windmills, the men practising archery and the packed housing inside the London Wall. You can also see two of the City gates – Moorgate and Bishopsgate. Look north of the latter and you can observe how the City is already spreading out into farmland …

The designation of this as a public open space in 1607 was quite revolutionary since previously large open spaces tended to be enclosed (and were often the property of institutions such as the monasteries or the inns of court).

By the late 17th century it had acquired a notorious neighbour, as can be seen in this map of 1682 …

Bethlem Royal Hospital was England’s first asylum for the treatment of mental illness, and for many years a place of inhumane conditions, the nickname of which – Bedlam – became a byword for mayhem or madness. It was also a popular London attraction for the morbidly entertained.

Old Bethlehem Hospital at Moorfields about 1750 …

By the 1750s Bethlem was accepting tens of thousands of paying visitors a year, making it a top tourist attraction for Londoners, second only to St Paul’s Cathedral in popularity. Most did not wish to admire the manicured gardens or ornate architecture but came instead to visit the hospital’s ‘crackbrained’ patients. For as little as a penny, anyone could gain access to Bethlem’s wards in order to stare at, taunt or abuse inmates.

An insight into the chaos of the hospital can be seen in Hogarth’s ‘madhouse’ scene from his series, A Rake’s Progress. The ‘Rake’, a previously wealthy young man has lost his money gambling and is thrown into Bethlehem Hospital. He is half naked with his head shaved, his ankles about to be shackled, while around him are various scenes of madness while two well-dressed women visitors look on in amusement …

In 1815, Bethlem was moved from its collapsing Moorfields site to a brand new building at St George’s Fields, south of the Thames. Lessons had been learned and an 1818 report found patients ‘clean, amply supplied with wholesome provisions and well clothed [with none] under restraint’. A financial audit suggested that the hospital was solvent and generally well-managed.

In 1815 the City Surveyor, William Mountague laid out the large, oval design that still exists today. The space was unique in the City of London, a copy of the grand garden squares in the West End, and the circus was originally flanked by houses whose residents had exclusive use of the garden. Eventually, however, the houses were gradually demolished and the circus was opened as a public park in the early 20th century.

Looking at the 1828 C and J Greenwood map, the oval lawn is clear and one of the most prominent buildings is the London Institution. The educational institution specialised in the study of chemistry and only closed in 1912. It was briefly used by University of London but then the buildings were demolished in 1936 …

The ‘circus’ of the name reflects the elliptical shape of the space, similar to the circus venues of ancient Rome. This recent aerial image illustrates this nicely …

From 2010 Crossrail took over the site to utilise the open green space as an access shaft to building the Elizabeth Line’s Liverpool Street Station. This was an extraordinary feat of engineering and here are some images showing the work in progress at the circus …

Looking down the shaft. It was 42 metres deep (that’s twice the height of the surrounding buildings if you want to picture it!) …

The garden is now restored and open. Policy Chairman at the City of London Corporation, Chris Hayward, said: Finsbury Circus Gardens is a beautiful, tranquil retreat in the heart of the City – now revitalised and ready to be rediscovered. Our green spaces play a vital role in making the Square Mile a welcoming and attractive place to live, work, and visit – delivering on our vision for a more inclusive, innovative, and sustainable City. These gardens reflect what makes the City of London so special – not just a global financial powerhouse, but a destination rich in beauty, history, and moments of escape.

I’m inclined to agree. Here are some images I took last week when there was actually some sunshine for a change!

The approach from Moorgate has been pedestrianised with some nice new planting …

New landscaping has allowed 12 additional tree species to be introduced, along with 13,000 plants and 6,000 bulbs, creating a habitat for birds, bees and bats. A large central lawn is surrounded by flat, wide pathways and seating in the form of many benches, which will no doubt be popular with workers from nearby offices during sunny lunchtimes …

Two lovely old drinking fountains …

Insect hotel …

I was relieved to see that the beautiful mature trees had survived the disruption …

The squirrels and pigeons carry on their traditional roles as professional beggars …

I was puzzled as to what became of the squirrels during the fifteen years of disruption after Crossrail moved in. Did they hang around in the trees or did they arrange an orderly retreat up City Road to Bunhill Fields until things returned to normal? I suppose I’ll never know.

There are interesting buildings both near and overlooking the circus and I shall write about them in another blog. Here’s a taster …

My thanks to Katie Wignall of Look Up London whose blog gave me some of the ideas for this week’s edition. You can read her post on Finsbury Circus here.

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Seafarers and a boy soldier at Tower Hamlets Cemetery Park.

By the 1830s central London’s cemeteries were literally overflowing with bodies but it was entrepreneurs, rather than the religious authorities, who responded to the squalor by financing seemly, hygienic concepts of burial in the rural outskirts, now embraced by inner London. The Magnificent Seven is an informal term applied these developments and I am gradually working my way around them. I have now visited Highgate and Abney Park and recently I ventured east to Mile End and Tower Hamlets Cemetery Park.

The City of London and Tower Hamlets Cemetery Company was made up of eleven wealthy directors whose occupations reflect the industries of the day: corn merchant, merchant ship broker and ship owner, timber merchant, and Lord Mayor of the City of London. The company bought 27 acres (109,265 m2) of land and the cemetery was divided into a consecrated part for Anglican burials and an unconsecrated part for all other denominations. The Cemetery was very popular with people from the East End and by 1889 247,000 bodies had been interred (the cemetery remained open for another 77 years). In the first two years 60% of the burials were in public graves and by 1851 this had increased to 80%. Public graves were the property of the company and were used to bury those whose families could not afford to buy a plot. Several persons, entirely unrelated to each other, could be buried in the same grave within the space of a few weeks. There are stories of some graves being dug 40 feet deep and containing up to 30 bodies.

I headed straight for the beautifully situated war memorial …

It consistes of 16 bronze tablets carrying a list of 283 names. I often find it incredibly moving to look closely at the names, and particularly the ages, of those who have been commemorated in memorials such as this.

This panel certainly told a story since the first name I came across was that of a 17-year-old called Private W J Thurgood of the Civil Service Rifles

The rules were that you had to be 18 to join up or be conscripted but it is estimated that around 250,000 boys under that age served during the First World War. Incidentally, the letters P.W.O. stand for the Prince of Wales’ Own.

This image tells a story …

The panel in full …

Of the fourteen men listed here where ages are stated, eight are aged 21 or younger.

You can read more about the teenage soldiers of World War 1 here.

A terrible storm at sea is brought to mind here on the family grave of Alfred James Gill and Captain J Warne. I love the details such as the rigging, the bird hovering on the left and what looks like lightning flashing on the right ….

A commemoration of the 190 people who died in Second World War air raids ….

The bricks used in this memorial come from the bombed houses nearby. The mention of a garden in the inscription (“THIS GARDEN…”) is about a garden that does not exist any more because, first, it became a path right up to the brick memorial, and second, the memorial itself was moved to a different location within the cemetery in 1995 because of vandalism.

One of the largest – and certainly the most imposing – family monument in the cemetery, is the Westwood Monument. Joseph Westwood, a businessman, lived at Tredegar House on the Bow Road …

You can read more about the Westwood dynasty here.

A few steps from the Westwood Monument is a 2016 memorial marking the
grave of three of Dr Thomas Barnado’s own children, and more than five hundred children who died whilst in his care who are buried elsewhere in
the Cemetery. Dr Barnado, who started his work with poor children in Stepney in 1868, set up The Ragged School in Stepney Causeway and children’s homes across the East End …

This is the large family vault erected for Ann Francis (d. 1859), wife of
Charles Francis (d.1861), a corn merchant and one of the founding Directors of the Cemetery. This is the highest point in the Cemetery Park and at the time the vault was built it was possible to see the Thames …

The monument was designed with a curious secret: a brick was removed from a wall so that the sun would shine through a wrought iron cross in a door on the western side of the vault at dawn on midsummer’s day …

The Bears were of German Jewish origin but converted to Methodism
and anglicised their names. Those buried here include Henry Bear, a wealthy tobacco and sugar merchant who lived on Cable Street …

The unusual mural of wheat signifies everlasting life …

The consoling text from John XII, v 24 “Except a corn of wheat fall into the ground and die, it abideth alone: but if it die, it bringeth forth much fruit.

This is the grave of Will Crooks (d. 1921) and his second wife Elizabeth.
A casual labourer in the docks he became politically active and was one of the leaders of the historic 1889 Dock Strike,in which dockworkers
successfully demonstrated for increased wages …

He campaigned not only for fair wages but also open spaces, technical education and the opening of the Blackwall Tunnel. He became London’s first Labour mayor in 1901 when he was named Mayor of Poplar. He was elected to Parliament in 1903 winning in Woolwich, a traditionally Tory constituency …

The grave was rediscovered and the Labour Party and local council paid for its restoration. A true working class hero, you can read more about him here.

This small stone marker commemorates Alfred Linnel …

A steel plaque attached to it reads:

‘Alfred Linnell, 1846 – 1887, is buried near this spot.
On Sunday 13th November 1887, ten thousand people marched towards Trafalgar Square, protesting against repression in Ireland and unemployment. Police and troops beat them with truncheons. A week after ‘Bloody Sunday’ Alfred Linnell, joined a gathering in Trafalgar Square to protest against the authorities’ violence. He was knocked down by a police horse and died on December 2nd.

Not one, not one, nor thousands must they slay
But one and all if they would dusk the day.

William Morris.’

The pamphlet printed to raise money for his family …

Apparently his was one of the biggest funerals ever held at the cemetery with literally thousands of people following the procession.

Unfortunately I failed to find the grave of Music Hall star (and husband of Marie Lloyd) Alec Hurley. Here’s an image of it I found online …

And the man himself …

This stone displays very unusual information. Captain John Chrystal was buried at sea and the relevant Latitude and Longitude map co-ordinates are engraved on the family tombstone …

Research shows that his ship, The Travancore, was just off the coast of Peru when he died. The ‘Register of Deceased Seamen’ gives his cause of death as ‘Heart Failure’.

The Travancore …

And John’s Master’s Certificate is also online, along with other documents …

Here are other images I took as I walked around. Some graves seem incredibly close together and, since the graveyard was hit by bombs a number of times during the Blitz, I’m wondering whether the markers were disturbed and have subsequently been propped up again …

Fred Savill’s memorial incorporates a sculpture of a horse. Maybe he enjoyed a ‘flutter on the gee gees’ …

Though filled with gravestones and funerary monuments, the cemetery has been allowed to revert to resemble a natural woodland, with many wildflowers, birds and insect species found in the park. There are several trails and walks created by the Friends of Tower Hamlets Cemetery Park you can follow. Here is one of them.

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