Walking the City of London

Category: Special Exhibitions Page 2 of 19

Happy Anniversary America!

Marking the 250th anniversary of the signing of the Declaration of Independence, a display in the Guildhall Heritage Gallery celebrates the political, cultural and diplomatic links that have connected the United States and the City of London over more than two centuries. Through rare documents and symbolic objects, it highlights moments of shared history during times of change, conflict and collaboration.

The parish register for All Hallows by the Tower records the marriage of John Quincy Adams and Louisa Johnson on 26 July 1797. Adams served as the sixth president of the United States of America between 1825 and 1829. He undertook diplomatic missions and was visiting London for the signing of a treaty when he met Louisa, the daughter of Joshua Johnson of Maryland. Members of the Adams and Johnson families acted as witnesses to the marriage ceremony and their signatures can be seen on the register …

For almost two hundred years Louisa was the only non-American First Lady until the inauguration of President Trump on 20 January 2017. You can read more about her later in the blog.

Peal and Company produced bespoke footwear between 1791 and 1965. Originally established in Stepney Green, their success allowed them to relocate to addresses in the West End. An early stage in the company’s process was drawing an outline of the customer’s foot (or both feet) in one of the company’s ‘Feet Books’ with measurements and irregularities noted. This information was then used to make a pair of lasts, which replicate the foot of the client. Peal and Company’s reach was international and one of the many American clients was Dean Martin, with the page from the Feet Book showing the outline of his right foot and his address in Beverley Hills …

This silk bookmark commemorates the assassination on 14 April 1865 of Abraham Lincoln, President from 1861 …

From the mid seventeenth century, labour shortages in the American colonies meant that many (mainly young) people who sought to emigrate but lacked the means to pay their fares bound themselves to serve for a specific number of years, without pay, in return for their passage. This practice, known as indentured servitude, brought many thousands of men, women and children to America. While some entered this agreement willingly, many others were misled or forcibly coerced. As the main English port to the Atlantic, London was a principal embarking point.

An 18th century trans-Atlantic sailing vessel (image © Royal Museums Greenwich) …

After working the length of the agreement, some chose to return to England; however many did not or could not. Opportunities within the colonies were available, especially for the earliest emigrants. The agreements shown here are for Robert Starling from Norwich and William Miles from Worcestershire, who were bound to serve the merchant John Dykes of London in Virginia …

The records do not provide details of their work in America or how their stories continued and the experience of indentured servants and the conditions they faced would have varied widely. Indentured service happened alongside other forms of unfree labour and large-scale forced population movements, including the transportation of convicts (many of whom served as indentured labourers) and, increasingly, the transatlantic trade in enslaved people. The economy on both sides of the Atlantic, the fortunes of a multitude of individuals and institutions and the fate of others were entwined in these practices.

Convicts on their way to America (image © Family Tree.com) …

Also on display is the order of service for the memorial service on 1 December 1963 at St Paul’s Cathedral following the assassination of President John F Kennedy in 22 November 1963 …

‘Letters from the American colonies’ …

By the 1770s the relationship between Britain and her American colonies had deteriorated, particularly over the question of import taxes. The City of London Corporation was very opposed to British government policy on this issue, partly for commercial reasons (merchants feared losing valuable trade if American ports were closed) and a belief that the policy was going against the English libertarian tradition.

John Wilkes, London politician and Lord Mayor between 1774 and 1775, famously championed the American cause. In April 1775 a remonstrance, or protest, was published declaring “… abhorrence of the measures, which have been pursu’d, & are now pursuing, to the Oppression of our Fellow Subjects in America”. King george III replied: “It is with utmost astonishment that I find any of my Subjects capable of encouraging the rebellious disposition which unhappily exists in some of my Colonies in North America”.

Wilkes by William Hogarth

A letter from New York.

The General Committee of Association of the City and County of New York was elected in April 1775. At first the Committee was loyal to the British Crown (while opposing the laws of the British Parliament). It knew of the views of the City of London Corporation and the Lord Mayor, and on 5 May 1775 wrote to the City …

It expressed a wish “… on our part for an indissoluble union with the Parent State, studious to promote Glory and Happiness of the Empire…

The Committee went on to say it was “impressed with a just sense of the Necessity of a Controlling authority to regulate and harmonize the discordant commercial interests of its various parts, we cheerfully submit to a Regulation of Commerce by the Legislature of the Parent State, excluding in its nature every idea of taxation”. The Committee appealed to the City of London to do all it could to “…restore union, mutual confidence and peace to the whole Empire”.

A letter from Philadelphia

In September 1775 another letter was sent to the City of London, this time from the Congress in Philadelphia. This letter thanks London “for the virtuous and unsolicited resentment you have shewn to the violated rights of a free people”. It also said “North America … wishes most ardently for a lasting connection with Great Britain on terms of just & equal liberty”.

Congress wished to keep relations with the City of London on a positive and friendly basis, anticipating a time when trading links could flourish. The letter was signed by its President, John Hancock

In 1776 Hancock presided over the debate on the Declaration of Independence and was its first signatory.

The City of London continued to express its strong disapproval of government policy throughout the period of the war. In 1781, another remonstrance was issued to the King, stating “… our abhorrence of the Continuation of this unnatural and unfortunate war”. When peace came in 1783 the City congratulated George III on paying “final attention” to their petitions.

The Honorary Freedom is the highest honour the City of London Corporation can bestow and awards are recorded in the ‘Roll of Fame’. When the City wishes to honour an individual, a special resolution is passed by the Court of Common Council. Once passed the recipient is formally admitted to the Freedom by the Chamberlain of London at a ceremony at Guildhall. Recipients who are not subjects of Britain or the Commonwealth and are therefore not able to take the freeman’s oath or declaration of allegiance to the British monarch are not technically admitted to the freedom but instead appear in the Roll of Fame as having been voted the honour. Military and naval recipients were usually given a sword to accompany the grant.

On display is the Roll of Fame …

It is open at the entry for General of the Army Dwight Eisenhower, Supreme Commander of the Allied Expeditionary Force. The honour was given as a mark of appreciation for his part in the defeat of German Forces during the Second World War. The Honorary Freedom was voted on 24 May 1945, and the entry notes that Eisenhower was unable to make the declaration but attended Guildhall on 12 June to receive the honour.

He went on to serve as president of the United States of America from 1953 to 1961.

If you get the chance to visit All Hallows by the Tower there are connections to William Penn as well as John Quincy Adams. Items to look out for include the marriage register mentioned above.

William Penn junior was baptised in the church and this memorial to commemorate the event was erected in 1911. It was damaged in the wartime bombing …

William’s father, Admiral Sir William Penn, was Commissioner of the nearby Navy Office and his son’s baptism took place on 23 October 1644. The Baptismal Register recording the occasion …

Penn’s entry is number 23 on the right hand page.

More about John Quincy Adams’s very talented wife …

The relevant entry in the 1797 Marriage Register …

As our King Charles III declared on his recent visit there: ‘God Bless the United States, and God Bless the United Kingdom’.

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Wow, is it really 30 years?

There’s a great exhibition just opened at the Barbican Library …

If you want to revisit ‘Cool Britannia’ (and even if you’re not sure) this is a show well worth taking some time out to see. As the City of London promotion online says, this is ‘A celebration of the wildest year of Britain’s wildest decade. Relive the 90s in all its iconic glory: music, fashion, football and the faces that made Cool Britannia cool.

There’s lots to look at, my images are just a small representation.

The Spice Girls feature prominently …

The Library display …

Mel B’s leopardskin print catsuit …

Emma Bunton’s blue dress …

Mel B’s platform shoes and the girls at the 1997 Brit Awards …

Downstairs in the Music Library …

Gerri Halliwell’s union jack print boots …

And her red outfit from 1996 with the Girl Power mantra …

Original Brit Award trophy from 1996 and Liam Gallagher’s tambourine …

Oasis are featured of course …

A special message from Irvine Welsh: ‘Enjoy the gig and remember to forget the 90s’ …

Around the exhibition …

Tabloid journalism at its finest …

Oh dear, looks like football isn’t coming home after all …

The Daily Mail contribution. I love the ‘Royalty Expert’ Nigel Dempster’s article entitled ‘Why Charles will never marry Camilla’ …

It’s free to visit and most enjoyable, whether you remember those days or not.

Endangered species (just like the newsprint tabloids!) …

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Mudlarking at the wonderful Watermen’s Hall.

Last Saturday was a lovely day – sunny weather and a mudlarking exhibition which also gave me the opportunity to visit the splendid Watermen’s Hall.

First of all, here are images of some of the fascinating items discovered by the mudlarking community on the Thames foreshore.

Surely this item was disposed of in the river after it was used in some nefarious activity …

I can imagine people feeling in their pocket or around a chain and thinking ‘Oh no, I must have dropped it in the river!’ These keys may have been lost getting on or off a river vessel …

Various collections on display …

I have often wondered where Nemo ended up …

My little personal collection, gifted to me by my friend Penny, a registered mudlark …

Now a little about Watermen’s Hall and the watermen themselves.

The earliest mention of the first Hall of the Company of Watermen was in 1603. At the time of this view of 1647 it was located at Cold Harbour, to the east of the modern Charing Cross, a mansion that had been acquired from Earl Gilbert …

It was destroyed in the Great Fire of 1666 along with the Company’s records. The Company moved to the present Hall at St. Mary at Hill, upon its completion in 1780 …

The coat of arms …

A magnificent door with the arms of the company incorporated in the knocker …

The arms indoors above a fireplace. The Latin motto reads At Command of our Superiors

For centuries, the quickest and most convenient way to travel within the City, or cross the river, or east or west from London, was by water. London Bridge was the only dry crossing over the River Thames in the immediate London area until the early 18th century but it was narrow and congested. The roads into and out of the capital were in a poor state. It was easier to take a ferry, or a wherry rowed by a waterman.

The full name of the institution is ‘The Company of Watermen and Lightermen of the River Thames’. Those who transported people along and over the river were known as watermen, whereas those who transported goods, particularly from larger ships to shore, were lightermen, i.e. they were making the larger ships ‘lighter’ by relieving them of their goods.

Thames wherries depicted in 19th century illustrations…

As you enter the building, there are various backboards from old wherries on display …

Thames lightermen around 1861 …

Lightermen posing in the middle of a dock in 1946 …

Prior to the early 16th century it was pretty much a free-for-all, but in 1514 the government started regulating the fares on the river. In 1555 governors were appointed to oversee the regulation and as a result the Watermen’s Company was born. The lightermen joined in 1700.

The hallway …

Before climbing the stairs, you encounter a ship made of mutton bone, said to have been constructed by veterans from the Battle of Trafalgar …

Nice stained glass …

In the hall is the portrait of a man called John Taylor (1578-1653) …

He was a waterman on the Thames but was also a clerk and wrote poetry, with over 150 publications in his lifetime …

In 1613 he became a waterman to the King, for employment in ceremonial occasions. An eccentric character, he dubbed himself the ‘King’s water poet’. In 1622, possibly to make a statement about a lack of appreciation for the watermen amongst Londoners, he sailed along the Thames a boat made from paper and two inflated pigs bladders, propelled along by two oars made of cane and dried fish.

After the civil war and the Puritans seized power in England, Cromwell famously banned the festivities around Christmas. They believed there should be special church service and definitely no drinking and merry-making.  In 1653 John Taylor published a treatise arguing vehemently in favour of the celebrations. It is said that he was the man to persuade King Charles II in exile, when he was restored to the throne, to swiftly reinstate it. The Company therefore call him the man that saved Christmas.

Some even believe that John Taylor became so associated with Christmas that when the Victorians created the classic image of Father Christmas that we think of today, they were inspired by the red coat and ruff in the painting above. You can read much more about this fascinating man here in a Spitalfields Life article by Gillian Tindall.

In 1715 the London-based Irish comic actor and theatre manager, Thomas Doggett, founded the ‘wager’ of a sculling race for Thames Watermen to celebrate the anniversary of the accession to the throne of King George I.

Mr Doggett …

The race was open to six watermen who had completed their apprenticeship in the previous twelve months. It took place between Swan Stairs at London Bridge and the White Swan Tavern at Chelsea, a distance of about five miles, rowing against the tide.

Continuing to this day, Doggett’s Coat and Badge stands as the revered prize for the world’s oldest continuous rowing race. This prestigious honour is fiercely contested by up to six apprentice watermen. The challenging 4-mile 5-furlong (7.44 km) race navigates the upstream course from London Bridge to Cadogan Pier, Chelsea, passing beneath a total of eleven bridges.

The coveted winner’s prize is a traditional watermen’s red coat adorned with a silver badge, featuring the horse of the House of Hanover and the word “Liberty” in homage to George I’s accession to the throne …

All participants completing the course receive a miniature Doggett’s Badge for their lapel in a ceremony at Watermen’s Hall – silver for the winner and bronze for the others. The Fishmongers’ Company extends monetary prizes to the rowing clubs involved, with £1,000 for the winner’s club, £600 for second place, £400 for third, and £200 for fourth.

Coats and badges on display …

Along with the beautiful uniform of the late Queen’s Bargemaster …

Until the middle of the nineteenth century the Sovereign regularly travelled on the river Thames, either on State occasions or between the Royal Palaces of Windsor, Westminster, Hampton Court, Greenwich and the Tower of London.

The Royal Barge Gloriana, Queen Elizabeth II’s Royal Barge presented to her at her Diamond Jubilee in 2012 …

The men who rowed the Royal Barges up and down the river Thames were known as Royal Watermen. The Sovereign today still retains 24 Royal Watermen under the command of what is now the King’s Bargemaster, thereby continuing one of the most ancient appointments in the Royal Household. The original number of 48 was halved by King Edward VII.

Watermen did not have an untarnished reputation, not least because of their foul speech, or ‘water language’. The Company of Watermen derived part of its income from fining freemen for bad behaviour and language. As Taylor put it: “I must confess that there are many rude uncivil fellows in our Company.” There is a well-known cartoon drawn by Thomas Rowlandson, made in 1812 as part of his Miseries of London series. A group of watermen are gathered at Wapping Old Stairs where they are accosting a plump lady, each attempting to gain her business …

Some of the art and treasure on display …

The Watermen and Lightermen are officially a company ‘without livery’. They are recognised by the City but they do not ‘clothe liverymen’ and therefore do not participate in the annual election of the Sheriffs or Lord Mayor of the City. 

They do however take part in many of the City’s ceremonies and traditions. For example they march at the front of the procession in the annual Lord Mayor’s Show. This is because originally it was largely a river procession. Incidentally, that is why we still say that parades are made up of ‘floats’ …

If you want to experience this wonderful building yourself, there are some dates coming up for afternoon teas and you will find more information here. You will find their general website here.

For more reading I recommend the great Living London History blog along with this History of London post.

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