Walking the City of London

Category: Architecture Page 6 of 89

A visit to Dr Johnson’s House.

Once surrounded by the throbbing printing presses of Fleet Street newspapers, Gough Square is today a quiet haven off the noisy main road. Now known as Dr Johnson’s House, 17 Gough Square was built by one Richard Gough, a City wool merchant, at the end of the seventeenth century. It is the only survivor from a larger development and Dr Johnson lived here from 1748 to 1759 whilst compiling his famous dictionary. It has been open to the public for many years but for some reason I’ve only just got around to visiting it …

The house has the first example of a Royal Society of Arts terracotta plaque (installed in 1898) commemorating Samuel Johnson’s residence here …

The way in …

Dr. Samuel Johnson (1709–1784) was an English writer, lexicographer, critic, and moralist, widely regarded as one of the most influential figures in 18th-century English literature. Born in Lichfield, Staffordshire, on September 18, 1709, he was the son of a bookseller. Despite battling poor health and financial hardship, he developed a voracious appetite for reading and classical learning.

Johnson attended Pembroke College, Oxford, in 1728, but was forced to leave after a year due to lack of funds. Although he did not complete a degree, his academic brilliance left a lasting impression. He moved to London in 1737 with his friend and former pupil David Garrick, who would later become a renowned actor. There, Johnson began his literary career with essays, translations, and poetry, steadily gaining recognition.

His most monumental achievement came in 1755 with the publication of A Dictionary of the English Language. A massive undertaking completed almost single-handedly, the dictionary was the most comprehensive English lexicon of its time and remained a standard reference for over a century. It established Johnson’s reputation as a leading intellectual so I head first to the top floor garrett where the great man worked. I can’t help but think of him grabbing the banister as he climbed the rickety, narrow staircase to the top floor …

The room where he worked. He was originally contracted to complete the project in just three years but in the end it took him just over eight to complete, with six helpers …

On the table is a facsimile of the final version which visitors can leaf through …

I made a point of looking up his famous (or infamous) definition of the word ‘Oats’ : ‘… grain, which in England is generally given to horses, but in Scotland supports the people’.

Note that he not only defines the word but also alludes to other examples of it in context quoting Shakespeare, Locke, Mortimer’s Husbandry and Swift …

Other fascinating definitions include his own occupation as lexicographer: ‘a writer of dictionaries; a harmless drudge, that busies himself in tracing the original, and detailing the signification of words’.

I also like Mouth-friend: ‘One who professes friendship without intending it.’

And what about this elegant, succinct definition of History: ‘A narration of events and facts delivered with dignity’.

Other interesting sights I encountered as I wandered from floor to floor.

Dr Johnson’s dictionary desk on loan from Pembroke College …

A famous portrait …

Bookcase with various editions of the work …

Johnson’s desk and chair …

An odd piece of memorabilia from the Johnson Club (1922). A brick from the Great Wall of China …

The reason for its acquisition …

Note the portrait above the fireplace …

‘This portrait of Anna Williams was painted by Frances Reynolds, sister of the more renowned portraitist, Sir Joshua Reynolds. All were friends with Samuel Johnson. The sitter, Anna Williams, was a friend and housekeeper to Johnson from the early 1750s until her death in 1783. Johnson supported the impoverished Williams, the daughter of a failed inventor, for many decades and helped publish a miscellany of literary works for her benefit. Frances Reynolds has created a sensitive portrayal of Williams who, at an early age, was blinded by untreatable cataracts in both her eyes’ …

Dr Johnson and Mrs Siddons …

‘The celebrated actress Sarah Siddons specialised in tragic roles, which helped her maintain a dignity and good reputation. She met … Johnson near the end of his life and the episode was the inspiration for this painting by Frith. When there was no chair in Johnson’s house for the actress he remarked with charm: ‘Madam, you who so often occasion a want of seats to other people, will the more easily excuse the want of one yourself.’

David Garrick’s chest used for storing his costumes …

Dr Johnson’s straddling chair …

A portriat of Johnson by John Opie (17611807). ‘It depicts Johnson with a “brooding intensity” and “uncompromising directness,” reflecting his character as a prominent figure in English literary criticism. Opie’s work, particularly his portrait of Johnson, is valued for its portrayal of the lexicographer’s character and influence. The portrait, while possibly idealized, stands in contrast to the more realistic depictions by other artists like Sir Joshua Reynolds’ …

James Boswell, whose Life of Samuel Johnson is commonly said to be the greatest biography written in the English language …

In the front room you will find this portrait, possibly depicting Francis Barber …

Barber was an enslaved Jamaican who arrived at the house, to be Dr Johnson’s servant, in 1752 aged ten. Johnson showed Barber great affection, paid for his education and also remarkably made him his heir. They were friends really rather than master and servant.

Johnson’s will leaving his trust to Francis Barber, Johnson himself had no direct descendants …

The fine front door (c.1775) complete with anti-burglary devices: a large chain with corkscrew latch, a spiked bar across the fanlight window and two large bolts …

The house is packed with fascinating items telling the story of the great man, his endeavours and the people who knew and worked with him. A highly recommended visit.

At the other side of the square, facing the house, is Johnson’s most famous cat, Hodge. Here he is remembered by this attractive bronze by John Bickley which was unveiled by the Lord Mayor, no less, in 1997. Hodge sits atop a copy of the dictionary and alongside a pair of empty oyster shells. Oysters were very affordable then and Johnson would buy them for Hodge himself. James Boswell, in his Life of Johnson, explained why:

I never shall forget the indulgence with which he treated Hodge, his cat: for whom he himself used to go out and buy oysters, lest the servants having that trouble should take a dislike to the poor creature

People occasionally put coins in the shell for luck and every now and then Hodge is given a smart bow tie of pink lawyers’ ribbon.

‘A very fine cat, a very fine cat indeed’, said Johnson

If you would like to follow me on Instagram here is the link …

https://www.instagram.com/london_city_gent

Special Spring edition – a visit to the Barbican Conservatory (and a few images of local flowers).

Atop the Barbican’s main theatre, wrapped around the fly tower, sits a two-story conservatory filled with lush greenery, somewhat at odds with the dull grey of the rest of the estate. This conservatory is the second largest in London (after Kew Gardens) and home to over 1,500 species of plants, but is one of the city’s lesser-known green spaces …

It was opened in 1982 and was intended to be a major visitor attraction and indoor green oasis for Londoners. However, visitor numbers were low. Over the years, the City Corporation reduced opening hours and instead leased the conservatory out as a venue for private parties and corporate events. Visiting is restricted to Friday evenings from 6:30 to 9:30 and Sundays from mid-day to 7:00 pm and you need to book a timed ticket. I went last Sunday at 1:00 and it was quite a comfortable viewing since ticketing has obviously led to good crowd control (you can book here).

Here are some of my images, starting with a resident terrapin (apparently ‘liberated’ from Hampstead Ponds) …

Images from the main tropical house …

I thought this was quite spooky and serpentine …

Some rather shy coi carp to finish with …

There is also an arid house, which is filled with cacti and succulents, but this was closed, so here are some pictures I took there when I visited back in 2018 …

Now, a few local flowers to celebrate Spring.

Tulips in Silk Street …

Little beds at the junction of Gresham Street and Wood Street. So nice when building owners plant flowers and look after them …

Work by the wonderful City gardeners on London Wall …

Finally, I couldn’t resist this shot of the Moon …

If you would like to follow me on Instagram here is the link …

https://www.instagram.com/london_city_gent

The Lloyd’s Register of Shipping and its maidens.

I first wrote briefly about this building in June 2020 saying that I would return later to write more and I have finally got around to it!

Lloyd’s Register began as The Society for the Registry of Shipping in 1760. In that year, eleven men met in Edward Lloyd’s coffee house to talk about publishing a list of ships, a register to define their quality and safeguard life and property carried on them. Much of the Register’s history, including its origins, has been preserved in the organisation’s Archives which contain over 1.1million digitised and catalogued assets including ship plans and surveys.

It has now eveolved into a charity, the Lloyd’s Register Foundation, whose objectives remain the same as those of Lloyd’s Register: to protect people from harm and to ensure the infrastructure that we depend on for day-to-day living is safe for society both now and in the future. The Foundation also strives to provide the right skills and education to achieve these objectives.

The building dates from 1899 t0 1901, its architect was T.E. Colcutt and the sculptors George Frampton and J.E. Taylerson.

It can be found at 71 Fenchurch Street, EC3M 4BS on the corner with Lloyd’s Avenue …

The north and south turrets …

There are numerous maidens holding models of different types of vessels …

The second maiden from the left holds the model of a steamship whilst the figure immediatly behind her holds a model of a galleon …

This panel also contains six maidens. Those in the foreground hold a ship’s telegraph, a hammer and a propeller. A cog or ratchet wheel emerges behind the leg of the right-hand figure …

The central panel contains a standing female personifying Lloyd’s. She wears a crown of sails and stands on a ship’s prow, holding in one hand a caduceus, in the other a book. Behind her is a Zodiacal sphere, and to either side of her are two mermaids ..

A series of bronze maidens holding model ships …

The impressive entrance …

The panel on the left may represent ‘Trade’. At the centre stands a naked youth, wearing mercury’s winged bonnet and holding the caduceus in one hand and in the other an orb surmounted by a galleon …

At his feet are waves bearing a symmetrical arrangement of sailing-ships laden with exotic fruit. Behind the youth is a representation of the globe. Four maidens stand to the left and three to the right, some wearing ethnic costume. One holds an elephants tusk, another a sheaf of corn. An Indian woman holds a war axe whilst the remainder hold closed caskets.

In the panel on the right there is at the centre another naked youth holding a sextant and a compass …

At his feet are waves bearing a symmetrical arrangement of sailing ships laden with packages. Behind the youth is the sun, its rays projecting to form a pattern in the background. The sun is flanked by ornamental columns, with compasses at the finials. There are three maidens on the left and four on the right, carrying navigational instruments, a globe and the model of a ship.

The spandrel above the right hand window on Lloyd’s Avenue. At the centre, from left to right, are the Arms of Cardiff and the words VILLÆ CARDIFF, the Arms of Hull, and the Arms of Southampton, with the words VILLÆ SOUT(HAMP)TONIÆ …

Flanking these are cross-sections of the engines of steamships and pairs of maidens to either side, holding tools and navigational instruments.

Above the left hand window …

At the centre, from left to right, the coat of arms of an unidentified towm, with motto …S…COMMUNI.TATIS V, followed by the Arms of Dublin and the Arms of Belfast with its motto (PRO) TANTO QUID RETRIBUAMUS, surrounded by a trophy of machinery connected with shipbuilding. Pairs of maidens to left and right hold plans and a model of a steamship.

There are also some amusing figures nearby, children playing with dolphins on a leash …

I haven’t been able to capture all the great aspects of this building, so I do recommend a visit, particularly on a sunny day …

In my descriptions, I am extremely grateful to Dr Philip Ward-Jackson and his comprehensive guide Public Sculpture of the City of London from which I have quoted extensively.

Some miscellaneous news and images.

New Moon above St Giles …

The Big Egg Hunt is on in the City (these two are at Aldgate and Barbican respectively) …

There’s a new image on the Tower 42 screen (but so far I haven’t been able to find out what it’s about – maybe something to do with Turkey?) …

Tulips are emerging in the Silk Street beds, hooray …

And, in the middle of them, a Camassia. Maybe from last year …

If you would like to follow me on Instagram here is the link …

https://www.instagram.com/london_city_gent

Page 6 of 89

Powered by WordPress & Theme by Anders Norén

Symbols & Secrets
Privacy Overview

This website uses cookies so that we can provide you with the best user experience possible. Cookie information is stored in your browser and performs functions such as recognising you when you return to our website and helping our team to understand which sections of the website you find most interesting and useful.