Walking the City of London

Category: Architecture Page 6 of 89

My visit to Cutlers’ Hall – swords, stained glass and much more.

One of the great pleasures of writing this blog is that every now and again I get a nice surprise. In February of this year I wrote about the wonderful terracotta frieze on Cutlers Hall

Subsequently, I received a kind invitation from Richard Herbert, a Past Master of the Cutlers’ Company, to visit the Hall and have a tour. We finally managed to get together last week and here’s my report.

At the front door I encoutered two of the literally hundreds of elephants that seem to occupy almost every corner of the building (including the soft furnishings!)

The cosy welcoming lobby …

Cutlers are known to have been practising their craft in London from at least the 2nd or 3rd century AD. Indeed, the word ‘cutler’ is derived from the Latin ‘cutellarius’ through the Old French ‘coutelier’ and signifies a maker or seller of knives and weapons with a cutting edge. Although cutlers traded in all manner of cutting instruments, it was their skill at producing fighting weapons that brought them wealth and prosperity. From earliest times until the end of the 16th century, with wars in France and internal civil wars, the demand for edged weapons was both constant and profitable. Only later did the emphasis shift from implements of war to cutlery and other domestic wares such as razors and scissors.

On 4th December 1416, the year following the battle of Agincourt, Henry V granted to the Company its first Royal Charter. This can be no coincidence, for the King had assembled his army in haste, and this was the only Livery Company to which he granted a Charter. One can speculate that the grant may have been made in part payment for arms supplied.

Stained glass in the entrance hall representing the granting of the Charter …

The Company continued to prosper, and in 1515 it was ordained that they should be placed 18th in the order of precedence of the City Companies, where they remain to this day. Over the years various monarchs have cancelled and reissued the Charter; the one under which the Company operates today was granted by James I in 1606 …

A ‘House of the Cutlers’ was recorded in 1285, just off Cheapside. By the early 15th century they had moved to a building on Cloak Lane, near Cannon Street. In 1660 their hall was in dire need of a rebuild, therefore the money was raised and the hall rebuilt on the same site. The final bills were paid in June 1666 only for the hall to be destroyed in the Great Fire of London three months later

Rebuilding started once again and the next hall was finished in 1670. Their bad luck continued however as, in 1882, the site was compulsorily acquired by the Metropolitan and District Railway Company and the hall was knocked down. This is when they moved to their current site and had their new hall built. The new Hall was designed by Mr. T. Tayler Smith, the Company’s Surveyor, and came into use on March 7th 1888. Above the door is the Cutlers’ Company French motto – To Succeed through good faith

The coat of arms displays three sets of crossed swords, a reference to their trade …

At the top is an elephant with a castle on its back. This is a heraldic symbol representing strength, but also a nod to the ivory that would have once used in the handles of their cutlery. Thankfully, of course, the use of ivory today is illegal.

Their string of bad luck fortunately came to an end in World War Two. The Hall amazingly managed to survive the bombs of the Blitz that flattened much of the area around it. It was more or less just Cutlers’ Hall and St Paul’s Cathedral that survived in this corner of the City. A high explosive bomb did destroy the entire building next to it on the 10th May 1941, bringing down the hall’s North wall. The damage however was repaired and the hall brought back into use …

My tour of the building was conducted by Beadle Tiago Lucas whose enthusiasm and vast knowledge of the building and the Company made this a real treat. Space doesn’t allow me to repeat all I saw and learnt here so here are some highlights.

Every December brings the traditional ‘Feast of the Boar’s Head’, commemorated here in this painting …

… and by this chap who greets you on the way up the stairs …

At the foot of the stairs …

The Hall is home to a number of very interesting collections.

Graham duHeaume excavated nearly 900 knives from the foreshore of the River Thames between 1970 and 1986. He generously donated the bulk of his collection to the Company in 2020 …

Examples of beautifully carved handles and, in the drawers beneath, the Company also possesses a fine collection of City of London, Livery and Guild-related medals and badges from their origins in the 17th. century to the present day …

You can view the collections in detail online here.

Presentation swords (with our reflection, whoops!) …

This exhibit tells a story …

Swords belonging to Viscount Montgomery of Alamein and The Duke of Cambridge …

Along with the latter’s interesting history …

A sword, said to have belonged to the son of King Edward III – Edward of Woodstock – better known as The Black Prince …

The magnificent Livery Hall, its main feature being its Victorian hammer beam roof …

Mounted high on the end wall above the canopy hangs a Barge Banner used for the Lord Mayor’s procession in 1763 when the Lord Mayor was Alderman Bridgen, a Cutler. The banner depicts the Arms of the Company and the City, Britannia, the Wand of Mercury, Roman Fasces and the Wand of Aesculapius …

The representation of the Stuart Arms is believed to date from about 1670-88 and to have been carved by a contemporary of Grinling Gibbons, who for a time resided in the Company’s premises at the ‘Belle Sauvage’ Inn on Ludgate Hill …

The hall has a fantastic selection of stained glass, for example cutlers going about their trade …

And Masters’ Coats of Arms from earlier Halls …

Right back to the seventeenth century, in fact …

Along with some vandalism, where an 18th century member has scratched his name on the glass, maybe using a diamond on a ring …

Not to be forgotten is the fact that charitable giving is an incredibly important part of the Company’s overall purpose and you can read more about this here. Also, you can use this link to read more about the annual Contemporary Cutlery Design competition along with images of winning designs. My favourite is the 2021 winner Hand by Anli Hou

I enjoyed my visit enormously. The relatively small size of the Hall means it manages to perform a difficult trick. It is not only friendly and intimate, but also suitably impressive, representing the long and prestigious history of the Company.

You can read more about the Company and the Hall (which is available for hire) here.

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Gilbert & George, Dylan Thomas and some holiday pics.

I was really pleased to hear that artists Gilbert and George had assembled an exhibition of some of their old work at their gallery just off Brick Lane and I popped along to see it a few weeks ago …

It’s entitled DEATH HOPE LIFE FEAR …

Here are some of the works on display …

Lots of goodies on sale in the shop …

Had a nice holiday in Wales a few weeks ago, starting in beautiful Tenby …

Then making a pilgrimage to Laugharne and Dylan Thomas’s writing shed …

Inside is an evocative reconstruction – his poor wife Caitlin had to sell the original contents to pay debts after his death …

Nearby is the boathouse where he lived …

Then to Cardiff with its castle

Nearby living accomodation …

… with extraordinary Victorian era decoration …

The beautiful library …

In the grounds is the long and very atmospheric World War II air raid shelter, with siren and bomb sound effects …

Frightening times …

I love these old posters, lots of the messages aimed at women …


Cardiff is a great City to visit and a pleasure to walk around. We enjoyed a lovely, interesting four days there.

Incidentally, came across these little chaps in Laugharne …

Seemed to be enjoying themselves!

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A visit to Dr Johnson’s House.

Once surrounded by the throbbing printing presses of Fleet Street newspapers, Gough Square is today a quiet haven off the noisy main road. Now known as Dr Johnson’s House, 17 Gough Square was built by one Richard Gough, a City wool merchant, at the end of the seventeenth century. It is the only survivor from a larger development and Dr Johnson lived here from 1748 to 1759 whilst compiling his famous dictionary. It has been open to the public for many years but for some reason I’ve only just got around to visiting it …

The house has the first example of a Royal Society of Arts terracotta plaque (installed in 1898) commemorating Samuel Johnson’s residence here …

The way in …

Dr. Samuel Johnson (1709–1784) was an English writer, lexicographer, critic, and moralist, widely regarded as one of the most influential figures in 18th-century English literature. Born in Lichfield, Staffordshire, on September 18, 1709, he was the son of a bookseller. Despite battling poor health and financial hardship, he developed a voracious appetite for reading and classical learning.

Johnson attended Pembroke College, Oxford, in 1728, but was forced to leave after a year due to lack of funds. Although he did not complete a degree, his academic brilliance left a lasting impression. He moved to London in 1737 with his friend and former pupil David Garrick, who would later become a renowned actor. There, Johnson began his literary career with essays, translations, and poetry, steadily gaining recognition.

His most monumental achievement came in 1755 with the publication of A Dictionary of the English Language. A massive undertaking completed almost single-handedly, the dictionary was the most comprehensive English lexicon of its time and remained a standard reference for over a century. It established Johnson’s reputation as a leading intellectual so I head first to the top floor garrett where the great man worked. I can’t help but think of him grabbing the banister as he climbed the rickety, narrow staircase to the top floor …

The room where he worked. He was originally contracted to complete the project in just three years but in the end it took him just over eight to complete, with six helpers …

On the table is a facsimile of the final version which visitors can leaf through …

I made a point of looking up his famous (or infamous) definition of the word ‘Oats’ : ‘… grain, which in England is generally given to horses, but in Scotland supports the people’.

Note that he not only defines the word but also alludes to other examples of it in context quoting Shakespeare, Locke, Mortimer’s Husbandry and Swift …

Other fascinating definitions include his own occupation as lexicographer: ‘a writer of dictionaries; a harmless drudge, that busies himself in tracing the original, and detailing the signification of words’.

I also like Mouth-friend: ‘One who professes friendship without intending it.’

And what about this elegant, succinct definition of History: ‘A narration of events and facts delivered with dignity’.

Other interesting sights I encountered as I wandered from floor to floor.

Dr Johnson’s dictionary desk on loan from Pembroke College …

A famous portrait …

Bookcase with various editions of the work …

Johnson’s desk and chair …

An odd piece of memorabilia from the Johnson Club (1922). A brick from the Great Wall of China …

The reason for its acquisition …

Note the portrait above the fireplace …

‘This portrait of Anna Williams was painted by Frances Reynolds, sister of the more renowned portraitist, Sir Joshua Reynolds. All were friends with Samuel Johnson. The sitter, Anna Williams, was a friend and housekeeper to Johnson from the early 1750s until her death in 1783. Johnson supported the impoverished Williams, the daughter of a failed inventor, for many decades and helped publish a miscellany of literary works for her benefit. Frances Reynolds has created a sensitive portrayal of Williams who, at an early age, was blinded by untreatable cataracts in both her eyes’ …

Dr Johnson and Mrs Siddons …

‘The celebrated actress Sarah Siddons specialised in tragic roles, which helped her maintain a dignity and good reputation. She met … Johnson near the end of his life and the episode was the inspiration for this painting by Frith. When there was no chair in Johnson’s house for the actress he remarked with charm: ‘Madam, you who so often occasion a want of seats to other people, will the more easily excuse the want of one yourself.’

David Garrick’s chest used for storing his costumes …

Dr Johnson’s straddling chair …

A portriat of Johnson by John Opie (17611807). ‘It depicts Johnson with a “brooding intensity” and “uncompromising directness,” reflecting his character as a prominent figure in English literary criticism. Opie’s work, particularly his portrait of Johnson, is valued for its portrayal of the lexicographer’s character and influence. The portrait, while possibly idealized, stands in contrast to the more realistic depictions by other artists like Sir Joshua Reynolds’ …

James Boswell, whose Life of Samuel Johnson is commonly said to be the greatest biography written in the English language …

In the front room you will find this portrait, possibly depicting Francis Barber …

Barber was an enslaved Jamaican who arrived at the house, to be Dr Johnson’s servant, in 1752 aged ten. Johnson showed Barber great affection, paid for his education and also remarkably made him his heir. They were friends really rather than master and servant.

Johnson’s will leaving his trust to Francis Barber, Johnson himself had no direct descendants …

The fine front door (c.1775) complete with anti-burglary devices: a large chain with corkscrew latch, a spiked bar across the fanlight window and two large bolts …

The house is packed with fascinating items telling the story of the great man, his endeavours and the people who knew and worked with him. A highly recommended visit.

At the other side of the square, facing the house, is Johnson’s most famous cat, Hodge. Here he is remembered by this attractive bronze by John Bickley which was unveiled by the Lord Mayor, no less, in 1997. Hodge sits atop a copy of the dictionary and alongside a pair of empty oyster shells. Oysters were very affordable then and Johnson would buy them for Hodge himself. James Boswell, in his Life of Johnson, explained why:

I never shall forget the indulgence with which he treated Hodge, his cat: for whom he himself used to go out and buy oysters, lest the servants having that trouble should take a dislike to the poor creature

People occasionally put coins in the shell for luck and every now and then Hodge is given a smart bow tie of pink lawyers’ ribbon.

‘A very fine cat, a very fine cat indeed’, said Johnson

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