Walking the City of London

Month: January 2025 Page 1 of 2

A terracotta treat.

Like many others, I was really sad to witness the demolition of what was usually called the Mappin & Webb building at Bank junction and see it replaced in 1997 by ‘1 Poultry’ by James Stirling. The old building a few years before demolition …

And at the turn of the 20th century …

Its replacement …

However, if you look up at the north side of the new development, you will see a fascinating survivor from the original building of 1875. In red terracotta, it portrays royal progresses and shows visits to the City of (from left to right) four monarchs; King Edward VI (1547-1553), Queen Elizabeth I (1558-1603), King Charles II (1660-1685) and Queen Victoria (1837-1901) …

The incorporation of the panels was part of the listed building consent and we have the planning officer at the time, Tony Tugnutt, to thank for them being placed on Cheapside (where they used to be) rather than over the service entrance as originally suggested. I think they blend in with the new building extremely well.

Here are the panels from left to right. The detail, which is not really apparent from the street, is wonderful.

On the far left is King Edward VI, only son of King Henry VIII, who came to the throne aged nine. The parade seems to be being led by a monk (with a cross hanging by his side) and the entourage is being followed by a little boy and a dog. Look at the detailed figures carved in the background, and there is a great sense of movement with the prancing, trotting horses …

The handsome young King doffs his hat to the crowd …


Queen Elizabeth I followed her half-brother Edward to the throne after the brief five-year reign by her half-sister Mary I. Mary was the first queen to rule England in her own right, 1553–58, and was known as Bloody Mary for her persecution of Protestants in a vain attempt to restore Roman Catholicism in England.

Elizabeth is carried in an extravagant sedan chair. Always fearing assassination, she is surrounded by well armed men …

Looking quite solemn, she is wearing her trademark pearl earrings. I like the little page boy bearing a cushion …

Now we skip a few kings and the Puritan times of Cromwell to get to the Merry Monarch Charles II …

He seems to be raising his hat to a lady, of course, and he’s accompanied by two of his famous spaniels. Is that a bishop smiling benevolently in a doorway?

When this frieze was created Queen Victoria had been on the throne for almost 40 years, so it would have been unthinkable not to include her. It’s another scene full of animation …

The Queen leans out of her carriage making a rather odd hand gesture …

She seems to be accompanied by a man in a tricorn hat.

According to the excellent London Remembers website: ‘During the mid-Victorian era the stonemasons were the coal miners of their day and went on strike, so the panels were manufactured in terracotta rather than carved in red sandstone as the rest of the building, and in Belgium as a way of breaking the strike’. You can read more here.

If you’re not very fond of the Stirling building, remember that, also under serious consideration, was this effort by Mies van der Rohe …

You can read a fascinating article about the proposed development of the Mansion House site here.

Inside the new building is the old Mappin & Webb clock …

If you walk through to the lightwell and look up you’ll get a bit of a surprise …

The three lightwell walls are lined with blue faience cladding enhanced by startlingly coloured window frames.

And now, a quick look at the exterior of Cutlers’ Hall (1886-7) in Warwick Lane. The ancient Cutlers’ Company’s origins go back to 1416, their business originally produced and traded in knives and swords but eventually expanded into household cutlery and domestic wares such as razors and scissors …

The work realistically depicts late Victorian cutlery production. This is not surprising since the sculptor, Benjamin Creswick (1853-1946) of Sheffield, was once a cutler himself. The frieze (containing 33 figures) was made by E. Goodall & Co of Manchester …

I’m going to write about this beautiful piece of craftmanship in more detail next week.

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The Port of London Authority building (plus a classic 1970s TV adventure series).

Just across the road from Tower Hill Underground Station is one of London’s finest architectural landmarks, the former Port of London Authority (PLA) building on Trinity Square.

It towers over Trinity Square Gardens, home of the Mercantile Marine Memorial to the Merchant Seamen who died in both world wars …

The old PLA headquarters harks back to the great days of Empire and global trade. The ‘Great and the Good’ gathered to lay commemoration stones a few years after building work commenced in 1912 …

The inauguration of the building by Prime Minister Lloyd George in 1922 was reported as an event of national importance. The creation of a unified Port Authority in 1909 had been facilitated by an Act of Parliament, the organisation being set up to Protect the Port of London from the increasingly destabilising effect of competition between rival dock companies …

The grand classical entrance features four Corinthian columns. It is three storeys high and topped by a massive tower with a giant figure that would have been clearly visible from the river…

Old Father Thames stands triumphantly, holding his trident and pointing
east, paying homage to the prosperity of trade between nations. The
trident, his lush beard and the anchor at his feet associates Old Father
Thames with Poseidon/Neptune – the Greek/Roman god of the sea – and
shows how classical symbolism was used to into the 20th century to
celebrate London’s influence over global maritime trade …

On the west side of the tower, within a galleon drawn through the waves by two sea horses, there stands a winged, nude male figure. He symbolises ‘Prowess’ and weilds a large antique oar …

On the east side is ‘Agriculture’, personified by a winged female figure with a flaming torch in her hand drawn in a triumphal chariot by two oxen. The beasts are lead along by a youthful male figure representing ‘Husbandry’ …

At street level is ‘Commerce’. A bearded male figure holds the scales of trade and a basket of merchandise. Before him is the lamp of truth …

‘Navigation’ is represented by a young woman with one hand on a ship’s wheel and the other holding a chart. Her foot rests on a globe and around her are the symbols of shipping …

Resting against elaborate lampposts outside the main entrance are two rather plump cherubs …

Inside the original building was a spectacular rotunda topped by a magnificent glass dome, created to emulate that of St. Paul’s Cathedral. This was totally destroyed in the World War II Blitz and I have only been able to find four images giving some idea of what it looked like …

The front of the building after the bombing …

In the 1970s, after the Port of London Authority moved to its current location in Tilbury, the building was renovated and the central courtyard was filled in with office space. It was then occupied by the European headquarters of the insurance broker Willis Faber Limited and continued to serve as offices until 2008. When Willis Faber moved on to a new location, the building lay vacant for several years.

It was purchased in 2010 by Reignwood, a Chinese investment company, and is now a Four Seasons Hotel. I must say, it really does look splendid.

Inside the main doors …

The rotunda has been reimagined …

It’s open to non-residents for drinks and snacks.

By the way, the 1946 reception of the first general assembly of the United Nations was hosted here in what is now known as the UN Ballroom. The occasion was attended by (among others) King Faisal of Saudi Arabia and US first lady Eleanor Roosevelt. From its second-floor location, the room’s windows overlook the Trinity Square Gardens and beyond to the Tower of London and Tower Bridge. It’s available to book for events …

The Museum of London Archaeology practice were given access to the site during redevelopment and a selection of the artefects they discovered are on display in the reception area. These are just a few of the exhibits – it’s well worth popping in to the hotel to have a look …

Now something readers more my age will remember!

The Professionals was a TV series that ran from 1977 to 1983 featuring Bodie and Doyle, senior agents of the British intelligence service CI5 (Criminal Intelligence 5), and their handler George Cowley, fighting terrorism and similar high-level crimes. The PLA building appears in the opening sequence of the second series.

Watch it in full here, including music – volume up! : https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=55gpif0a0P8

Some stills from the sequence …

The famous railings they stride past are still there …

It’s worth walking round to the north side of the building which is also impressive …

You can just about make out a plinth in front of the building. It’s a bust of one of my heroes, the diarist and brilliant naval administrator Samuel Pepys …

The music carved on it is the tune of Beauty Retire, a song that Pepys wrote. The garden in which it stands in Seething Lane contains a number of paving stones representing his life and events that occurred during it. You can read more about them here and here. Just across the road is St Olave Hart Street. It’s tiny and wonderfully atmospheric, being one of the few surviving Medieval buildings in London.

Incidentally, it was exactly 67 years ago today that the terrible Smithfield Market fire of 1958 broke out. I have written about it in my recent blog Goodbye Smithfield Market – Special Edition.

If you would like to follow me on Instagram here is the link …

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Experiment in Black and White.

Last week I was admiring the wonderful images in David Hoffman’s recently published book Endurance & Joy in the East End 1971-1987 (you can order your own copy here from Spitalfield Life Books). All the images are in black and white and some of you may remember that I tried this approach some years ago regarding my exploration of City Alleys.

There is definitely something, isn’t there, about black and white images – atmosphere, the means to play with geometric shapes, seeing a new perspective of a familiar image and so on.

So I’ve been looking at some candidates for taking this approach and these are the results. I hope you like them.

The view from The Grapes pub, Limehouse. Entitled Another Time, it is a life size figure by the sculptor Anthony Gormley …

Below are five images from the viewing gallery at 22 Bishopsgate, Horizon 22.

Looking down on Tower 52. It was originally the NatWest Tower, hence, seen from above, it’s shaped like the NatWest logo …

The viewing gallery …

I like the shadows …

Back on the streets, Blackfriars tower refelection …

Roman Wall and offices at Tower Hill …

Merchant Navy War Memorial, also at Tower Hill …

The Firefighters Memorial at St Paul’s …

Temple Bar viewed from the St Paul’s Cathedral crypt …

Crypt memorial …

Battersea Power Station …

Flypast!

The Stockwell Bus Garage roof. In 1952, the time of its construction, it was Europe’s largest unsupported roof span – it’s still impressive now …

The Guggenheim Museum, Bilbao …

Maman (1999), by Louise Bourgeois …

The demolition of an old building opened up a temporary new view of the Guildhall and the Shard …

Panorama looking east with little St Giles church tucked away on the right …

The poor Gherkin, and even Tower 52, becoming dwarfed and enclosed by new developments …

City skyline with The Tower in the foreground …

Bunhill Burial Ground …

St Stephen Walbrook …

St Dunstan-in-the-East …

Various architectural images I liked …

The Gherkin and the church tower of St Andrew Undershaft reflected in the glass of The Scalpel building …

London Wall…

Lloyd’s of London meets Leadenhall Market …

St Pancras Station with Sir John Betjeman’s statue in the foreground …

Tower 52 looking up …

Finally, a few from the Barbican (as you might expect!) …

Where archers can be deployed if necessary …

In colour for comparison …

I hope you enjoyed that little excursion into black and white. Clearly, I think, some images work better than others.

Normal service will be resumed next week.

If you would like to follow me on Instagram here is the link …

https://www.instagram.com/london_city_gent

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