Walking the City of London

Category: Social History Page 1 of 15

St Benet Paul’s Wharf. Get a sense of what the geniuses Wren and Hooke wanted a church to look like .

Dedicated to the 6th century St Benedict who founded the original monastic code, St Benet’s stands rather isolated with the fast traffic of Queen Victoria Street flowing high above (EC4V 4ER) …

It was built between 1678 and 1684 under the auspices of Sir Christopher Wren (1632-1723) with original drawings by Robert Hooke (1635-1703). It’s one of the few City churches to survive Victorian reordering and 20th century bomb damage and remains much as it was built.

The Dutch-influenced exterior is built of red and blue brick, with stone quoins on the corners and carved stone garlands over the winows …

The interior of the church retains substantial galleries on the west and north side. The north side gallery …

… which offers a striking view of St Paul’s Cathedral from the main aisle …

Original furnishings include the reredos, which displays the Ten Commandments, Creed and Lord’s Prayer, beneath the tetragrammaton (the name of God in Hebrew characters) …

The magnificent Communion table (possibly Flemish) with its carved angels and central figure of Charity …

The original elegant Communion rails with twisted balusters …

The pulpit, originally marked with the royal cipher and ‘Donum [given] 1683’ …

Some online guides attribute the carving to Grinling Gibbons but evidence is, apparently, not convincing. It’s still beautiful though …

The pulpit’s tester, or sounding board, is now located in the vestibule below the tower …

Another original furnishing is the octagonal marble font and its carved wooden cover …

Many of these furnishings were given by the lawyer and diplomat Sir Leoline (Llewellyn) Jenkins (1625-1685).

The splendid doorcase to the tower lobby is surmounted by the royal arms of Charles II …

View from the north gallery …

Balcony miscellany ..

Since 1555, St Benet has been the church of the College of Arms (the heraldic authority for England, Wales, Northern Ireland and much of the Commonwealth) which stands nearly opposite on Queen Victoria Street.

The view of the church from the College forecourt …

At least 25 Officers of Arms have been buried in the church …

Coats of arms of College officers …

There is a memorial in the church to John Charles Brooke …

It refers to a ‘dreadful calamity’ at the Haymarket Theatre on 3 February 1794 which resulted in Brooke losing his life …

On that date, George III and Queen Charlotte were attending the Haymarket Theatre for the first time that season, and the royal command performance attracted vast numbers of people. The crowds were so huge that when the door was opened, those in the front of the queue were pushed down the stairs leading to the pit. More than 70 people fell and at least 20 were fatally crushed to death or suffocated. You can read more about the ‘Haymarket Tramplings’ here.

There is a splendid white marble bust of Sir Robert Wyseman (d. 1684). Sir Robert was Dean of the Court of Arches, the Archbishop of Canterbury’s chief ecclesiastical court, once held at St Mary-le-Bow …

When looking for great descriptions of monuments I always return to Bob Speel’s website.

Here’s what he says about Wyseman: ‘The portrait is also excellent – a rather solid-faced man, given a look of pride and dignity, a stern man, with flowing locks of hair or wig, his throat covered by an ornate carved high collar, his chest within a heavy robe. Pevsner, the architectural historian, notes that the monument has been attributed to Grinling Gibbons and the bust to Arnold Quellin’.

Here’s a closer look …

My eyes were drawn to this old bible resting in a pew beside the altar …

Being nosey, I looked to see if there was anything of interest written in the flyleaves. And there was! It was a gift ‘Presented to Sir John Puleston by the aged Welsh poor of the East End on their 25th Annual Treat, January 21st 1896 as a small token of their Love and Esteem’. It’s signed (and presumably written) on their behalf by ‘R H Williams Missionary’. Isn’t that wonderful …

The left hand page explains how it has found its way to St Benet – a gift in 1945 from Sir John’s grand daughter.

It is, of course, a Welsh Bible, with this inscription inside …

Sir John’s life is so remarkable I can’t even begin to describe it here so have provided some links. To whet your appetite, here he is in Washington DC holding the rank of Colonel ..

On 19 October he 1908 he passed away at his home at 2 Whitehall Court, London. Every pilot ship around Britain’s coast flew its flag at half mast. After a memorial service in London, he was buried in the family vault at Llanfair Dyffryn Clwyd, a village and community in Denbeighshire, Wales. He died bankrupt.

Two links for you to follow if you want to know more about him – in Wikipedia and in a fascinating ancestry site.

In the aisle is the tombstone of an extraordinary woman …

The inscription reads as follows:

Here lieth the body of Mrs. DELARIVIER MANLEY, Daughter of Sir Roger Manley, Knight, Who, suitable to her birth and education, was acquainted with several Parts of Knowledge And with the most Polite Writers, both in the FRENCH and ENGLISH tongue. This Accomplishment, Together with a greater natural Stock of Wit, made her Conversation Agreeable to All who knew Her and her Writings to be universally read with Pleasure. She dyed July 11 Anno Domini 1724.

A little more about her from a review of an autobiography: ‘A Tory pamphleteer, playwright, and satirical historian, Manley was regarded by her contemporaries Jonathan Swift and Robert Harley as a key member of the Tory propaganda team. Her best-selling political scandal chronicle The New Atlantis (1709) helped to bring down the Whig ministry in 1710. Her reputation was tarnished, however, in subsequent generations and twentieth-century scholars often misread her works as under-developed novels rather than as complex works of political satire’.

Sadly no picture of her exists but you can read more about her here.

For a great guide to the many other interesting monuments and memorials in the church, have a look at Bob Speel’s website.

Located as it is, on the south side of the busy Queen Victoria Street below the level of the road, St Benet looks rather inaccessible, but this is misleading. To visit, just cross at the pedestrian crossing leading to the Millennium Bridge, turn right, walk down the steps and you’re at the church in less than five minutes.

A magnificent eagle lectern …

Times to visit are restricted to when the Friends of City Churches are available to welcome visitors and at the moment this is on Thursdays between 11:00am and 3:00pm. They do a super job keeping churches open for visitors and the members who were on duty when I visited last Thursday were splendid company and very informative guides. There is a service there every Sunday. It’s primarily in Welsh since, by an Order in Council in 1879, St Benet became the Metropolitan Welsh Church after Queen Victoria was petitioned to prevent its demolition.

It is difficult now to imagine now what the area looked like before post-war development but this photograph, probably taken in the 1920s from the north across Queen Victoria Street, gives some idea (© The London Museum) …

A painting by Rev John Louis Petit (1801 – 1868). He records it as having been made at mid-day, 22 June 1856 …

An engraving of St Benet’s Paul’s Wharf (c1rca 1838) reproduced from Godwin, ‘The Churches of London’ Vol I, 1838 …

In August 1952 …

The church amidst 1960s redevelopment …

For even more information, visit the excellent London Inheritance blog entitled The Lost Wharfs of Upper Thames Street and St. Benet’s Welsh Church.

If you would like to follow me on Instagram here is the link …

https://www.instagram.com/london_city_gent

Things that cheered me up!

It’s a bit of an understatement to say that these are not very happy times but, being an optimist by nature, I have been looking for things to cheer me up. Here are some of them (organised totally at random).

This year the Lord Mayor’s Big Curry Lunch commemorates the 85th anniversary of the Battle of Britain. If you are able, do pop along to the Guildhall and view the super garden that has been created there to recognise the occasion …

I think it is sweet that people still leave small tokens on this memorial to William Blake in Bunhill Burial Ground, even though his grave is now marked out elsewhere …

His actual burial place (photographed shortly after a marker was placed there) …

A couple of my attempts to photograph both the new Moon and the planet Venus (the slightly smudged light in the sky on the right) …

A better picture from early January …

Our Orchid Christmas present from 2023 has flowered again …

High point of the week, the arrival of a fresh set of cards from brilliant local artist Jill Green …

Check out her website for lots of other handcrafted goods, including lovely leather items : www.shopjill.com

I visited the Threadneedle Hotel for the first time and encountered this magnificent glass dome …

I’m going to visit again and write more about its history (and the cocktail bar looks tempting) …

Another splendid dome at 10 Trinity Square …

Read more about it, and the building it is in, here.

A time-travelling office worker from the 1970s would look at this picture and wonder why everyone in the office seemed to be watching TV …

The power and attraction of sporting competition. Advertising board outside a bar/restaurant in Madeira in Febrauary …

Funchal Botanical Gardens …

I found this ice cream cone really scary …

Portuguese knick-knacks …

City church weathervanes glimpsed from a distance.

St Giles Cripplegate …

The St Lawrence Jewry gridiron weathervane …

St Lawrence was martyred in San Lorenzo on 10 August 258 AD in a particularly gruesome fashion, being roasted to death on a gridiron. At one point, the legend tells us, he remarked ‘you can turn me over now, this side is done’. Appropriately, he is the patron saint of cooks, chefs and comedians.

The Minotaur at dusk with the Roman/Medieval wall in the background …

A cormorant glides past Mrs Coot sitting on her nest …

Mr Coot is pottering about nearby at the top of the picture.

Aquatic themed corridor in Tonbridge Grammar School …

A favourite ghost sign at Finchley Road Underground Station …

The Bryant family produced three generations of chimney sweeps and the family history is, according to one researcher, a tale of ‘intrigue, betrayal and bigamy’. You can find their research on Instagram. Another person was curious enough to trace the family history using various databases such as Ancestry UK. You can read what they discovered here. A visit to Finchley Road Station will never be the same again!

The London Jewish ‘Mural’ on Finchley Road …

Spooky charity shop models …

48-inch waist, I reckon …

Six’, the musical, at the Vaudeville Theatre, put us in a great frame of mind. And they allow pictures to be taken of the finale …

I’ll finish the blog with a laugh from one of the best political cartonists …

If you would like to follow me on Instagram here is the link …

https://www.instagram.com/london_city_gent

‘Elvis put his hand on my shoulder’ – My visit to Abney Park Cemetery.

On my recent visit to Abney Park I came across this bench …

Let me quote from one of the published tributes to the Mally Powell who is remembered here: ‘Mally Powell was the singer with the cult glam disco funk band Zip Zip Undo Me. He was the writer of great songs including (Mind Your) Plums and Fist (“She’s back, she’s risen, she’s bent the bars of Holloway Prison”). Dressed in leather, ripped fishnets, sequins, and fake fur, Mally swirled his tail in the face of current trends, avoiding the de-rigueur shoe-gazing of the period, to command the stage like a disco fuelled Iggy Pop’.

Mally in action …

He died in 2013 at the sadly young age of 48. You can see images and hear a performance here and here. Read a full obituary here.

He died in Wales and I have been unable to find out where he is buried but this bench is certainly a form of immortality (I don’t normally Google glam disco funk band singers!).

Now some more about Abney Park itself.

In the early 1800s, London’s rapid population growth proved too much for inner city burial grounds, which were literally overflowing. Parliament passed a bill in 1832 to encourage the establishment of new private cemeteries. Within ten years, seven had been established (later dubbed ‘The Magnificent Seven’ by architectural historian Hugh Meller), one of which was Abney Park.

A modest entrance in Church Street …

The site of Abney Park was formed from the estates of Fleetwood House and Abney House, the latter of which had been the home of renowned non-conformist and hymn writer Isaac Watts. This association quickly made Abney the foremost burial ground for Dissenters – those practising their religion outside the established church. It was founded on these principles, with a non-denominational chapel at its core, and was open to all, regardless of religious conviction. Over 200,000 people are laid to rest here.

Here are some of the other highlights of my visit.

Possibly the most well-known resident of Abney Park is William Booth, English methodist preacher and founder of the Salvation Army …

After a childhood marred by poverty, Booth preached to the sinners of Nottingham with Will Sansom, then moved to London in 1849, finding work as a pawnbroker. In 1851 he left his job and, after years of Methodist evangelical preaching, he founded the East London Christian Mission at Mile End in 1865. After an incident in 1878 the Salvation Army was established. With his wife Catherine, herself a formidable preacher, Booth worked hard to abolish poverty, homelessness and vice, publishing ‘In Darkest England and the Way Out’ in 1890. Operations extended worldwide to include America, France and Australia. Many other Salvationists are buried in this area …

Bostock’s lion …

Frank Bostock was a well-known menagerist responsible for the introduction of many exotic animals to Victorian England. Known as ‘the animal king’, he travelled the world. The Bostock animal arena was a main attraction at Coney Island in the early 1900s. ‘Bostock’s Arena and Jungle’ is recorded as being held at Earls Court in 1908 and then visited principal cities in the UK over the following years. At the time of his death in 1912, Bostock had over a thousand animals in his various shows. He had circus shows and amusement parks in America, Australia, Europe and South Africa. The floral tributes at his funeral took up five carriages.

Bostock and his lions. Brave chap! I think he’s pretending to be nonchalantly reading a newspaper …

PC William Frederick Tyler lost his life in the line of duty …

He was killed on 23 January 1909 by armed criminals while giving chase in what became known as ‘The Tottenham Outrage’. A wages robbery was staged by two left-wing Latvian migrants in Tottenham. The pursuit ended after an estimated 2 hours, after covering 6 miles. Sadly 10 year old Ralph Jocelyn was also fatally struck by the cross-fire. Hundreds of thousands of people attended the joint funeral for PC Tyler and Ralph on 29 January. The grade II listed monument was commissioned by the Metropolitan Police, who also paid for a plot for the Jocelyn family nearby.

The Reverend Henry Richard …

Henry Richard was born in Tregaron, Wales in 1812. After obtaining qualifications for the ministry at Highbury College, he became a Congregational minister. He was known as ‘the Apostle of Peace’, being an advocate for peace and international arbitration. He was also respected for his non-conformist and anti-slavery work. Rev’d Richard was secretary of the Peace Society from 1848-1884 and a Welsh MP from 1868-1888. After his sudden death in 1888 the Richard monument was erected by public subscription in 1891. This grand memorial is Grade II listed.

The only mausoleum permitted by the Abney Park Cemetery Company is that of Dr. Nathaniel Rogers

Rogers, who died in 1884, was a doctor of medicine known for his philanthropic works. He edited medical books, lectured and sympathised with anti-slavery supporters. Dr Rogers was a Baptist, supporting their meetings, and involvement in the non-denominational London Missionary Society. He made donations to assist with the restoration of the Pulteney Monument at Westminster Abbey, stained glass windows at St Paul’s Cathedral, Abney Park Chapel and the Union Chapel. Twenty years before his death, Rogers designed this Grade II listed mausoleum for himself.

A portrait from his 1847 book Obituaries of eminent persons and private friends

African-American Eric Walrond is one of the most respected Harlem Renaissance writers …

Born in Guyana, he later moved to New York in the 1920s. His work, including the classic Tropic Death, was influenced by his years growing up in the Caribbean and the slave trade’s legacy. In the 1930s he moved to England and died in London in 1966. This monument was carved by a member of Abney Park’s stone carving group. Walrond is buried in an unmarked public grave in the area behind the headstone.

James Braidwood was a fire-fighter of Scottish descent. He founded the
first fire-service in Edinburgh and later became the first director of
the London Fire Brigade. By 1830, Braidwood had established principles
of fire fighting that were published and are still in use today …

The funeral procession was over one mile long, the hearse was tailed by 15 coaches and representatives of all London Fire Brigades, the Rifle Brigade and the police were present. You can read more about this brave man and the Tooley Street fire in my blog of the same name which you can find here.

Joanna Vassa was the daughter of the man who could claim to be Britain’s first Black activist, Olaudah Equiano alias Gustavus Vassa. Equiano was shipped to England as a slave, served in the navy and obtained his freedom in 1766. He became a writer, Methodist and anti-slavery campaigner, and wrote a groundbreaking autobiography The Interesting Narrative of the Life Of Olaudah Equiano, or Gustavus Vassa, The African, published in 1789 …

Vassa married Susannah Cullen of Soham, Cambridgeshire and they had two daughters. This monument was discovered in the early 1990s in bad condition. After restoration works funded by Abney Park Trust in 2016, it was removed from the English Heritage ‘At Risk’ register.

Abney Park Chapel …

The first foundation stone of the chapel was laid by the then Lord Mayor of London, Sir  Chapman Marshall, on 20 May 1840. The architect of the chapel was William Hosking FSA (1800–1861), a professor in Architecture and Civil Engineering, and the first professor of Architecture at Kings College.

Abney Park Chapel is the oldest surviving non-denominational chapel in Europe, and is the only surviving public building by Hosking, then considered a controversial architect. Hosking planned the Chapel to reflect the lack of bias towards any one Christian sect and the cruciform plan adopted the equal arms of the Greek cross, to show the concept of equality before God. It functioned as a funerary chapel – not a place of worship.

The Chapel is the first building known to have been built by John Jay. His varied body of works included building the Victorian clock tower and the city clock of the Houses of Parliament during the 1850s and his body rests nearby …

The rich baroque sarcophagus of white stone with a curved belly, standing on four delightful lion’s paws with elaborately carved filigree at each end, is rumoured to have been sculpted by Jay himself.

It was nice to be accompanied some of the way by a friendly, territorial Robin, a bird believed by some to represent a visit by the spirit of lost loved ones …

Some miscellaneous images.

The War Memorial…

One of the 140 marked graves …

Intriguingly, I discovered two tombstones with musical notes on them and my friend Anne, doyenne of ancestry research, has found out more about the people using census records.

Henry James De Boodt appears to have been a general labourer,  GPO worker and builder at various times. His son, however, was a piano tuner, so maybe Henry was a music lover and his son had the talent to decorate the memorial accordingly …

The other stone marks the grave of Gladys St Aubyn Dunn. She had at one time been a governess and at the time of the 1921 census was a music teacher for the Evening Institute. Maybe she chose the musical score herself? The poem is also rather sweet …

I caught a glimpse of an anchor …

… and investigated further …

The inscription tells the sad tale of an only child called Harry, aged just 17, drowned in an accident off the coast of Colombo.

Abney is a wonderful place. It is managed by a Trust and you can donate to its work here. There is also a nice cafe just inside the main entrance.

Incidentally, you’ll find this lion in another of the Magnificent Seven Cemeteries. It’s the tomb of Frank Bostock’s one-time partner George Wombwell …

Read more about it here in my blog about Highgate.

If you would like to follow me on Instagram here is the link …

https://www.instagram.com/london_city_gent

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