Walking the City of London

Author: The City Gent Page 8 of 132

The brilliant, beautiful Blackfriar pub – an Art Nouveau masterpiece.

Last Saturday I visited what is, in my opinion, the most extraordinary pub in the City, the Blackfriar …

It’s a tall, narrow, wedge shaped treat of a building squeezed in between two roads and a railway bridge.

A jolly, corpulent friar embodies the name of the place …

He harks back to the Dominican monastery that once stood on the site before the Dissolution of the 16th century saw it sold off or leased to weathy merchants.

You get a sense of how extraordinary this pub is before you even enter. Here the cellarer carries wine along with the keys to his domain …

Inspecting the day’s catch whilst either side friars tuck in to pie and cheese…

More carvings to make you smile …

Intricate brass signage …

And all this before you even go in the door.

And when you do, what a sight awaits.

Friars going about their daily lives. Harvesting on Saturday afternoon …

Above the bar, a bronze bas-relief entitled Tomorrow will be Friday depicts them catching trout and eels …

Singing carols …

You can dine in the cosy Grotto which was excavated from the railway vault. There are various sayings and mottos to amuse and enlighten you. HASTE IS SLOW, FINERY IS FOOLERY …

And my two favourites, A GOOD THING IS SOON SNATCHED UP with a grinning friar pushing a pig in a wheelbarrow …

I also like DON’T ADVERTISE TELL A GOSSIP …

Note the two devils. There are four in each corner of the room amusing themselves with an entertaining pastime – these two are play-acting and painting.

Admire the mosaic ceiling and observe the friar on the left …

He’s stuffing his face with food thereby representing one of the seven deadly sins – gluttony …

Five more sins are represented but for some reason ‘lust’ has been omitted.

More monks work hard supporting lamp shades …

There’s a lovely stained glass window depicting a friar working at dawn in a sunlit garden. Many people comment on his pointy, Mr Spock-type ears …

You will find a very informative and interesting history of the pub and the craftsmen who helped create its unique environment here in the excellent Victorian Web blog. I also strongly recommend this article by Jane Peyton which points out other aspects of the decoration that I have not mentioned. Read more about the City monasteries and in particular the Blackfriars in my blog on the subject which you can find here.

I’ve eaten here in the Grotto many times over the years and the food (especially the fish and chips) has always been good. If you visit, raise a glass to Sir John Betjeman and others who campaigned to save this building from demolition in the 1960s. It is now Grade II* listed and so should be safe from future vandals.

If you would like to follow me on Instagram here is the link …

https://www.instagram.com/london_city_gent

Heading east again – London City Island and Trinity Buoy Wharf.

Regular readers will know that when I find it a bit difficult to source new stories about the City I head east and this is a report on one of my sorties.

I travelled on the Docklands Light Railway to Canning Town, making sure, of course, that I got a front seat so I could pretend to drive the train …

Trinity Buoy Wharf was my ultimate destination but I got there via London City Island and took a few images along the way.

Crossing the bridge to get there …

London City Island is described in its advertising as ‘a new Island neighbourhood on one of the best-connected sites in the capital. Bridging the business might of neighbouring Canary Wharf and the cultural energy of east London, London City Island is one of the most important waterside projects London has seen in recent years – an award-winning place that has received accolades from multiple prestigious awards bodies’. It was very pleasant to walk through.

The English National Ballet is here …

The sculpture is called After The Dance by Colin Spofforth (2023) …

I love a good ghost sign …

A strange fact associated with this place. In 1877 Togo Heihachiro, later a prominent Japanese Admiral, came for work experience with the Samuda Brothers after completing his training at the Naval Preparatory School in Portsmouth and the Royal Naval College at Greenwich. After returning to Japan, he led the Imperial Japanese Navy navy to victory in the Russo-Japanese War, establishing Japan as a Great Power. How ironic is that.

To say that Mr Mare of the above company had a colourful career would be an understatement. Once an MP, and apparently a millionaire, he was unseated for bribery in 1853 and declared bankrupt for the first of four times in 1855. He eventually died in Stepney in 1898 totally destitute. His story is told in fascinating detail in this Victorian Commons blog. Highly recommended.

The gates are by the sculptor Sir Anthony Caro

I loved the texture and colours of this old brick wall nearby …

Some more artwork and sculpture along the way …

My final destination …

You know you are somewhere special when you see a London taxi with a tree growing out of its roof plonked on top of the local cafe …

The tree is an artificial sculptural construction made of metal. It was made by the artist Andrew Baldwin, who spent many years training as a master blacksmith and welder. I found images of the work before it was placed on the roof and of the lifting exercise itself …

The taxi/tree sculpture is a good example of Baldwin’s witty approach to artworks and there are some more of his unusual and original metal sculptures to be seen around the wharf …

Half man half dolphin riding a penny-farthing …

Steel house …

Some other images from around the wharf.

The Trinity House Coat of Arms – Trinitas in Unitate – Three in One …

Old tug boat with Canary Wharf and the Millennium Dome in the background …

Redundant machinery rusting away colourfully …

Anchor with the lightship in the background …

From an image point of view, a blue sky behind a red subject is perfect!

More sculptures …

Appropriately, I’ll finish with a buoy …

This was a great place to visit and you can read more about it here.

If you would like to follow me on Instagram here is the link …

https://www.instagram.com/london_city_gent

A suprising bonus of being treated by the NHS (and other images I hope you will like) …

I often build up a bank of images that don’t fit any particular theme but that I rather like. I feel it’s a shame not to share them so that’s the purpose of today’s blog. Apologies if you have seen some of these already on Instagram.

My friend recently had a surgical procedure at University College Hospital and was given a room to herself in order to recover. That room was on the 14th floor and this was the view …

One of the best London panoramas I have ever seen.

The nursing care was great too.

Funnily enough I had a great view when I was resident in St Thomas’ Hospital for few days last year …

I should have charged tourists an admission fee.

I can occasionally get what I think are good pictures without wandering too far.

An interesting sunset …

The moon moving slowly past the Shard …

Tower 52 framed by newer buildings turned pink by the sunset light …

The continual colour changes fascinate me …

The eerie glow of the Barbican Conservatory in the early evening …

Incidentally, here we also get a good view of flypasts heading for Buckingham Palace. This one was for the King’s Birthday on 15th June …

Just around the corner, a red glow slices through an office block on Fore Street …

Whilst on the theme of sunsets and moons, please excuse a couple of holiday snaps from Dubrovnik …

Lovely place, highly recommended.

Some images from a recent visit to the Houses of Parliament starting with Westminster Hall and its 14th century hammerbeam roof ..

Various plaques indicate where the bodies of eminent people lay in State before their funeral …

This one prompted me to learn more about the Earl of Strafford who was subsequently beheaded on Tower Hill in 1641 …

His trial along with a list of key attendees …

Guy Fawkes was also tried here but I suppose it’s not surprising that no plaque commemorates the event considering what he had set out to do!

Guy and his fellow conspirators …

Fawkes’s signature before and after he was tortured on the rack has a gruesome fascination …

View from the House of Commons Terrace …

I recently had a very enjoyable lunch at Larry’s Restaurant at the National Portrait Gallery. It has a wacky lobster theme throughout …

Nice cocktails too.

On one of my walks I came across the rather splendid Law Society building on Chancery Lane …

I liked the ‘lions’. They are formally known in heraldry as Lions Sejant

The sculptor, Alfred Stevens, always referred to them as his cats since, apparently, he used his neighbour’s pet animal as a model for the pose.

I do wander around outside the City occasionally and find delightful surprises such as this memorial dispensary in Cambridge Avenue, Kilburn …

Horses and donkeys were the most commonly used animals in wartime – mainly for transport and haulage, but camels, elephants, pigeons, bullocks, dogs and goats were all pressed into service. Many suffered from exposure, lack of food and disease, dying alongside their human companions …

In 1931 a competition was held for the design of a memorial for the main facade of the building. Frederick Brook Hitch of Hertford was the winner and his wonderful bronze plaque is above the main door …

Read all about the pigeon that was awarded the Croix de Guerre in my blog of January 2021.

I love the sight of dozing ducks …

The Heritage Gallery at the Guildhall Art Gallery is hosting three small exhibitions at the moment. I have already written about two of them and you can find them here: one about Robert Hooke and another about Blackfriars Bridge.

The third is about a gentleman called Charles Pearson – a name I didn’t recognise but should have.

He was a great campaigner who supported universal suffrage, electoral reform and opposed capital punishment. He also had a vision for an underground railway, describing a ‘Spacious Railway station in Farringdon Street by which means … the overcrowding of the streets by carriages and foot-passengers van be diminished’.

The exhibition contains a street plan along with a booklet setting out his case using speeches he gave on the subject …

There is also a link between Pearson and The Monument.

An inscription on the north side originally held Catholics responsible for the Great Fire: The Latin words Sed Furor Papisticus Qui Tamdiu Patravit Nondum Restingvitur translates as ‘but Popish frenzy, which wrought such horrors, is not yet quenched’. Pearson campaigned to have the words removed and you can see where they once existed at the base of the panel before being scored out …

The deletion in close up …

Another great reason to visit the Guildhall Art Gallery is that their prestigious bookshop is now stocking my book …

Over 100 pages in full colour with a fold-out map at the back. A bargain stocking filler for only £10!

If you would like to follow me on Instagram here is the link …

https://www.instagram.com/london_city_gent

Page 8 of 132

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