Walking the City of London

Category: Social History Page 2 of 16

‘Elvis put his hand on my shoulder’ – My visit to Abney Park Cemetery.

On my recent visit to Abney Park I came across this bench …

Let me quote from one of the published tributes to the Mally Powell who is remembered here: ‘Mally Powell was the singer with the cult glam disco funk band Zip Zip Undo Me. He was the writer of great songs including (Mind Your) Plums and Fist (“She’s back, she’s risen, she’s bent the bars of Holloway Prison”). Dressed in leather, ripped fishnets, sequins, and fake fur, Mally swirled his tail in the face of current trends, avoiding the de-rigueur shoe-gazing of the period, to command the stage like a disco fuelled Iggy Pop’.

Mally in action …

He died in 2013 at the sadly young age of 48. You can see images and hear a performance here and here. Read a full obituary here.

He died in Wales and I have been unable to find out where he is buried but this bench is certainly a form of immortality (I don’t normally Google glam disco funk band singers!).

Now some more about Abney Park itself.

In the early 1800s, London’s rapid population growth proved too much for inner city burial grounds, which were literally overflowing. Parliament passed a bill in 1832 to encourage the establishment of new private cemeteries. Within ten years, seven had been established (later dubbed ‘The Magnificent Seven’ by architectural historian Hugh Meller), one of which was Abney Park.

A modest entrance in Church Street …

The site of Abney Park was formed from the estates of Fleetwood House and Abney House, the latter of which had been the home of renowned non-conformist and hymn writer Isaac Watts. This association quickly made Abney the foremost burial ground for Dissenters – those practising their religion outside the established church. It was founded on these principles, with a non-denominational chapel at its core, and was open to all, regardless of religious conviction. Over 200,000 people are laid to rest here.

Here are some of the other highlights of my visit.

Possibly the most well-known resident of Abney Park is William Booth, English methodist preacher and founder of the Salvation Army …

After a childhood marred by poverty, Booth preached to the sinners of Nottingham with Will Sansom, then moved to London in 1849, finding work as a pawnbroker. In 1851 he left his job and, after years of Methodist evangelical preaching, he founded the East London Christian Mission at Mile End in 1865. After an incident in 1878 the Salvation Army was established. With his wife Catherine, herself a formidable preacher, Booth worked hard to abolish poverty, homelessness and vice, publishing ‘In Darkest England and the Way Out’ in 1890. Operations extended worldwide to include America, France and Australia. Many other Salvationists are buried in this area …

Bostock’s lion …

Frank Bostock was a well-known menagerist responsible for the introduction of many exotic animals to Victorian England. Known as ‘the animal king’, he travelled the world. The Bostock animal arena was a main attraction at Coney Island in the early 1900s. ‘Bostock’s Arena and Jungle’ is recorded as being held at Earls Court in 1908 and then visited principal cities in the UK over the following years. At the time of his death in 1912, Bostock had over a thousand animals in his various shows. He had circus shows and amusement parks in America, Australia, Europe and South Africa. The floral tributes at his funeral took up five carriages.

Bostock and his lions. Brave chap! I think he’s pretending to be nonchalantly reading a newspaper …

PC William Frederick Tyler lost his life in the line of duty …

He was killed on 23 January 1909 by armed criminals while giving chase in what became known as ‘The Tottenham Outrage’. A wages robbery was staged by two left-wing Latvian migrants in Tottenham. The pursuit ended after an estimated 2 hours, after covering 6 miles. Sadly 10 year old Ralph Jocelyn was also fatally struck by the cross-fire. Hundreds of thousands of people attended the joint funeral for PC Tyler and Ralph on 29 January. The grade II listed monument was commissioned by the Metropolitan Police, who also paid for a plot for the Jocelyn family nearby.

The Reverend Henry Richard …

Henry Richard was born in Tregaron, Wales in 1812. After obtaining qualifications for the ministry at Highbury College, he became a Congregational minister. He was known as ‘the Apostle of Peace’, being an advocate for peace and international arbitration. He was also respected for his non-conformist and anti-slavery work. Rev’d Richard was secretary of the Peace Society from 1848-1884 and a Welsh MP from 1868-1888. After his sudden death in 1888 the Richard monument was erected by public subscription in 1891. This grand memorial is Grade II listed.

The only mausoleum permitted by the Abney Park Cemetery Company is that of Dr. Nathaniel Rogers

Rogers, who died in 1884, was a doctor of medicine known for his philanthropic works. He edited medical books, lectured and sympathised with anti-slavery supporters. Dr Rogers was a Baptist, supporting their meetings, and involvement in the non-denominational London Missionary Society. He made donations to assist with the restoration of the Pulteney Monument at Westminster Abbey, stained glass windows at St Paul’s Cathedral, Abney Park Chapel and the Union Chapel. Twenty years before his death, Rogers designed this Grade II listed mausoleum for himself.

A portrait from his 1847 book Obituaries of eminent persons and private friends

African-American Eric Walrond is one of the most respected Harlem Renaissance writers …

Born in Guyana, he later moved to New York in the 1920s. His work, including the classic Tropic Death, was influenced by his years growing up in the Caribbean and the slave trade’s legacy. In the 1930s he moved to England and died in London in 1966. This monument was carved by a member of Abney Park’s stone carving group. Walrond is buried in an unmarked public grave in the area behind the headstone.

James Braidwood was a fire-fighter of Scottish descent. He founded the
first fire-service in Edinburgh and later became the first director of
the London Fire Brigade. By 1830, Braidwood had established principles
of fire fighting that were published and are still in use today …

The funeral procession was over one mile long, the hearse was tailed by 15 coaches and representatives of all London Fire Brigades, the Rifle Brigade and the police were present. You can read more about this brave man and the Tooley Street fire in my blog of the same name which you can find here.

Joanna Vassa was the daughter of the man who could claim to be Britain’s first Black activist, Olaudah Equiano alias Gustavus Vassa. Equiano was shipped to England as a slave, served in the navy and obtained his freedom in 1766. He became a writer, Methodist and anti-slavery campaigner, and wrote a groundbreaking autobiography The Interesting Narrative of the Life Of Olaudah Equiano, or Gustavus Vassa, The African, published in 1789 …

Vassa married Susannah Cullen of Soham, Cambridgeshire and they had two daughters. This monument was discovered in the early 1990s in bad condition. After restoration works funded by Abney Park Trust in 2016, it was removed from the English Heritage ‘At Risk’ register.

Abney Park Chapel …

The first foundation stone of the chapel was laid by the then Lord Mayor of London, Sir  Chapman Marshall, on 20 May 1840. The architect of the chapel was William Hosking FSA (1800–1861), a professor in Architecture and Civil Engineering, and the first professor of Architecture at Kings College.

Abney Park Chapel is the oldest surviving non-denominational chapel in Europe, and is the only surviving public building by Hosking, then considered a controversial architect. Hosking planned the Chapel to reflect the lack of bias towards any one Christian sect and the cruciform plan adopted the equal arms of the Greek cross, to show the concept of equality before God. It functioned as a funerary chapel – not a place of worship.

The Chapel is the first building known to have been built by John Jay. His varied body of works included building the Victorian clock tower and the city clock of the Houses of Parliament during the 1850s and his body rests nearby …

The rich baroque sarcophagus of white stone with a curved belly, standing on four delightful lion’s paws with elaborately carved filigree at each end, is rumoured to have been sculpted by Jay himself.

It was nice to be accompanied some of the way by a friendly, territorial Robin, a bird believed by some to represent a visit by the spirit of lost loved ones …

Some miscellaneous images.

The War Memorial…

One of the 140 marked graves …

Intriguingly, I discovered two tombstones with musical notes on them and my friend Anne, doyenne of ancestry research, has found out more about the people using census records.

Henry James De Boodt appears to have been a general labourer,  GPO worker and builder at various times. His son, however, was a piano tuner, so maybe Henry was a music lover and his son had the talent to decorate the memorial accordingly …

The other stone marks the grave of Gladys St Aubyn Dunn. She had at one time been a governess and at the time of the 1921 census was a music teacher for the Evening Institute. Maybe she chose the musical score herself? The poem is also rather sweet …

I caught a glimpse of an anchor …

… and investigated further …

The inscription tells the sad tale of an only child called Harry, aged just 17, drowned in an accident off the coast of Colombo.

Abney is a wonderful place. It is managed by a Trust and you can donate to its work here. There is also a nice cafe just inside the main entrance.

Incidentally, you’ll find this lion in another of the Magnificent Seven Cemeteries. It’s the tomb of Frank Bostock’s one-time partner George Wombwell …

Read more about it here in my blog about Highgate.

If you would like to follow me on Instagram here is the link …

https://www.instagram.com/london_city_gent

The extraordinary Illustrated Police News.

Last Friday I was watching a fascinating programme about Jack the Ripper, hosted by the historian Lucy Worsley, and noticed that she made occasional reference to this interesting publication.

Those of you who have read my book, Courage, Crime & Charity in the City of London, will know that I used illustrations from this journal in some of my stories. I hope, therefore, that you would like to know more about it …

The Illustrated Police News (1864 – 1938) was a weekly illustrated newspaper that printed accounts of the week’s most sensational crimes, tragedies, and scandals, in addition to regular updates from the police courts. Priced at a penny for the majority of its 74 years of publication, The Illustrated Police News (hereafter known as the IPN) had a large circulation across the country. It was particularly popular in the later decades of the nineteenth century, and according to an advertisers’ handbook, by 1888 the circulation had reached an impressive 300,000, eclipsing the News of the World (100,000) and Pictorial News (95,000). The newspaper continued to be printed up until 1938, long after other newspapers containing similar content ceased publication.

The first edition of the IPN, 20 February 1864 – The Great Murder and Piracy Case …

Despite its commercial success, it received regular criticism and opposition, which was particularly caustic during its early years. Such criticisms regarded the content and style of the IPN’s illustrations, reports, and advertisements as unsuitable for the reading masses and responsible for the degeneration of society. This will become more clear as you look at the examples of content I have included in this blog.

I’m writing this on 5th January 2025. If I were reading the IPN on this day in 1895, for example, what stories would I have been treated to? Well, here are some of them.

As well as high drama, ‘Extraordinary Murder by Women’, ‘Mysterious Death in Long Acre’ and a man who seems to mistake a Trafalgar Square fountain for a swimming pool …

… there is also some factual news. For example, progress on the excavation of the Blackwall Tunnel and some intriguing snippets about the population of America …

Plus some corny jokes and stories (which I rather liked) …

On another page in the same edition …

Apart from the dramatic illustrations, on the same page you can read about Christmas Burglaries, a Fire at the Royal Exchange, Jealousy and Spiritalism and the Most Powerful Ship Afloat. I’d happily tuck in to stories like these over breakfast.

I am indebted to Will Noble, writing in The Londonist, for these further excerpts.

An ice skating tragedy in Regent’s Park …

Around 200 skaters plunged into the icy waters of a lake in Regent’s Park in January 1867, prompting the horrific scene above — and the death of some 40 people. The image is so vivid, you can almost hear the melee. The tragedy prompted new safety measures, which ensured that when another similar accident happened a few years later, everyone survived.

A policeman gets a kicking in a bizarre attack …

Students from Paddington’s Civil Service Training College don’t take kindly to being arrested for throwing snowballs.

A horrific carriage accident at Hackney Marshes …

Before there were car accidents, there were horse and carriage accidents, and a tragic one occurred at Hackney Marshes in August 1867, when a horse pulling a phaeton containing a young family got spooked and tipped them into the Hertford Union Canal (then the Duckett’s Canal). The article reports that one of the young girls drowned, while another was not in a good way. “The carriage was completely destroyed, and the horse so much injured that it had to be killed,” ends the piece. Brutal. 

Suicide at the Crystal Palace …

“He shouted loyally ‘Good bye, chaps.’ He was standing on the rail that surrounds the gallery at the base of the great tank, and was waving his cap. Instantly he threw his cap up into the air, and sprang from the gallery.” Thus 43-year-old workman Thomas Jennings ended his life from high up on the North Water Tower of the Crystal Palace. Suicides were regularly covered in the news (the more shocking the better), and although in today’s tabloids depicting such a thing would be considered beyond the pale, it was par for the course on the front page of the IPN.

The boundaries of taste were most severely tested when to came to reporting the 1888 ‘Jack the Ripper’ murders …

Few women have had the moment of their deaths returned to more often, and with as much relish, as Mary Ann “Polly” Nichols, Annie Chapman, Elizabeth Stride, Catherine Eddowes and Mary Jane Kelly.

In each case their throats were cut, and four of them had their entrails removed. Kelly, the only one of “the canonical five”, as Jack the Ripper’s known victims are called, to die in her bed, was completely mutilated. Forests have been felled in the interests of unmasking the murderer, but until now no one has bothered to discover the identity of his victims. A superb recent book, The Five, is ‘an angry and important work of historical detection, calling time on the misogyny that has fed the Ripper myth’. It’s written by Hallie Rubenhold who Lucy Worsley interviews in her programme – do try and watch it on catch-up. There are further interviews and comments here and a detailed review of the book here.

Only one location of a ‘Ripper’ murder still exists. It is Mitre Square, near Aldgate, where poor Catherine Eddowes was killed on 3oth September 1888 …

You can find more details in my Exploring Aldgate blog.

To be fair to the IPN, it played a part in drawing attention to the terrible poverty, crime and deprivation that was literally only a few hundred yards from the the City of London, the thriving heart of the Empire.

The Punch engraving of The Nemesis of Neglect

On 18 September 1888, in the wake of the murders of Mary Ann Nichols and Annie Chapman, The Times published a letter by philanthropist Lord Sidney Godolphin Osborne (1808–1889) that deplored the great social and economic divide that separated the West End from the East End. To Osborne, the murders were a consequence of the great poverty of the East End, and this poverty in turn a result of the people of the West End living lives of luxury. Inspired by this letter, Alice in Wonderland illustrator John Tenniel (1820–1914) drew “The Nemesis of Neglect” for Punch Magazine. The image, published 29 September, shows a semi-transparent spectre with a gaping maw, bulging eyes and a large knife in its hand. The illustration was accompanied by a poem, the last line of which gave it its name. 

I also feel I should point out that the IPN not only covered stories that featured female victims. Some of the women written about were responsible for truly heroic acts that confounded the female stereotypes of the times.

For example, it reported in great detail the heroism of the brave Alice Ayres …

And the self-sacrifice of Mary Rogers …

You can read more about them in my blog about Postman’s Park and the Watts Memorial.

The IPN ceased publication in 1938 when it transformed into The Sporting Record. Before its transformation, the editorial of the IPN would proudly state:
‘The Police News made its first appearance in 1864 and at once became a rare favourite. It created a sensation with its reports of the week’s most interesting court cases and by being the first newspaper to publish illustrations. Throughout the years the Police News has been in great demand, but…time marches on…now the topic of the day is sport, and then more sport’.

The last edition, 3 March 1938 …

If you would like to immerse yourself more fully in the history of the IPN and its times I strongly recommend Alice Smalley’s brilliant PhD Thesis Representations of Crime, Justice, and Punishment in the Popular
Press: A Study of the Illustrated Police News, 1864-1938
. It was the source for much of today’s blog. You can find it here.

All images from the IPN are © The British Library.

If you would like to follow me on Instagram here is the link …

https://www.instagram.com/london_city_gent

The Imaginary Institution of India – Art 1975-1998 – Barbican Art Gallery – Closes Sunday 5th January.

I ended the old year with a visit to this extraordinary exhibition which I highly recommend although, sadly, there are only a few days left.

It’s described in the introduction material as follows: Featuring artwork by over 30 Indian artists, this major exhibition is bookended by two transformative events in India’s history: Indira Gandhi’s declaration of a state of emergency in 1975 and the Pokhran nuclear tests in 1998. The fraught period between these years was marked by social upheaval, economic collapse, and rapid urbanisation.

Within this turbulence, ordinary life continued, and artists made work that distilled historically significant episodes as well as intimate moments and shared experiences. Across a range of media, the vivid, urgent works on show – about friendship, love, desire, family, religion, violence, caste, community, protest – are deeply personal documents from a period of tremendous change.

This is the first institutional exhibition to cover these definitive years, with many works never before seen in the UK.

You can buy timed tickets and watch a short video here.

I hope my images give you a sense of the experience of a visit. Of the published reviews I like these best : The one in The Guardian newspaper along with the review by Dr Pavan Mano of King’s College London

Here are some of the images I took:

Gieve Patel (1940-2023) Two Men with Hand Cart, 1979

Nilima Sheikh, Shamiana, 1996

Gulamohammed Sheikh (b. 1937) Speechless City, 1975

Photographs by Pablo Bartholomew (b. 1955)

Sudhir Patwardhan (b. 1949) Dhakka and Running Woman, both 1977

Gieve Patel Off Lamington Road, 1982-86

Sunil Gupta (b. 1953) Exiles, 1987

Arpita Singh Seashore,1984

Bronzes by Meera Mukherjee (1923-1998)

Himmat Shah (b. 1933) Untitled

K.P. Krishnakumar Boatman-2, 1988

In the foreground, N.N.Rimzon From the ghats of Yamuna , 1990 and on the wall M.F.Husain (1915-2011) Safdar Hashmi, 1989

Arpita Singh My Mother, 1993

N.N. Rimzon House of Heavens,1995

N.N.Rimzon The Tools, 1993

You can buy timed tickets and watch a short video here.

If you would like to follow me on Instagram here is the link …

https://www.instagram.com/london_city_gent

Page 2 of 16

Powered by WordPress & Theme by Anders Norén

Symbols & Secrets
Privacy Overview

This website uses cookies so that we can provide you with the best user experience possible. Cookie information is stored in your browser and performs functions such as recognising you when you return to our website and helping our team to understand which sections of the website you find most interesting and useful.