Symbols & Secrets

Walking the City of London

Hampstead Cemetery Residents.

My parents are at rest in Hampstead Cemetery and so I visit occasionally but have never really taken a long look around. I decided to put this right this week when the weather was a bit cooler and this blog is the result.

I knew some famous people were buried there but, unfortunately, there is only one map of the place online and that seems to be a photograph of a map in a glass case, so it’s not very clear …

Anyway, I set out optimistically and found a few of the highlights.

The prize for most stunning memorial must probably go to this tomb …

The splendid Grade II listed Art Deco Bianchi memorial was created by Cesare Bianchi for his wife Martha who died in 1936 giving birth to her second child. The memorial is set in a large triangular plot that had wrought iron railings and a gate until they were stolen by thieves in 2011. A futurist angel stands with wings outstretched over a gateway inscribed with the name Bianchi …

On either side of the gateway are carved relief panels, one showing Martha ascending to heaven accompanied by wingless angels …

… the other showing Martha and Cesare, apparently reunited in the afterlife, sitting on a bench with Martha finally cradling the baby she presumably never got to hold before she died …

The entry of Italy into the war in June 1940 was a disaster for the family. Despite living for 27 years in Britain, fighting on the same side in the great war, and being a father to a young motherless family, Cesare found himself interned by the British Government as an enemy alien. At the end of June he was in Liverpool, waiting to board a boat for an internment camp in Canada, the British authorities apparently believing that only removal to another continent would ensure that the ex pat Italian community would be unable to help the Axis war effort. Not our finest hour.

On the 30 June Cesare joined 734 other interned Italian men on the SS Arandora Star along with 479 interned Germans and 86 German PoWs, all bound for St John’s Newfoundland. The ship was torpedoed by a U Boat on 2 July. 805 people drowned, but Cesare survived, was returned to Liverpool, and subsequently interned on the Isle of Man until 1942. He subsequently found work in Smithfield Market but was tragically killed when a V2 rocket hit the site on 8 March 1945. Cesare was buried with other victims of the V2 in the City of London Cemetery in Manor Park.  He would have certainly wanted to be buried with his wife but the circumstances of his death made that impossible

I am indebted to the brilliant London Dead blog for these details about Cesare and Martha.

This is the tomb of Henry Brodribb Irving (5 August 1870 – 17 October 1919), a British stage actor and actor manager and the eldest son of Sir Henry Irving and his wife Florence …

He liked to be known as H B Irvine to distinguish his career from his father’s …

He initially studied and practised law before committing to acting. During World War I he withdrew from the theatre and returned to the law, writing the study for which he is now most famous, A Book of Remarkable Criminals, originally published in 1918, which examined the lives, motivations and crimes of some infamous murderers. He had already published Life of Judge Jeffreys, and Studies of French Criminals and other papers on the subject. After spending twenty years of his life dedicated to the theatre, his greatest success came from being what it was originally intended he should be, a legal expert.

There is a poem inscribed on slate incorporated in the memorial …

It’s entitled Say not the struggle nought availeth and you can find it here if the image is hard to read. There is also an analysis of the poem and more about the author here.

You could easily walk past this grave …

… and not realise that it is the resting place of a man considered by many to be the father of modern surgery, Joseph Lister (1827-1912) …

In the mid 19th Century it was highly possible that you would survive an operation, only to die from a post-operative infection. Ether had been first introduced as an anaesthetic in surgery in 1846, reducing the chances of patients dying of pain or shock, but the risk of post-operative death was still significant and it was Joseph Lister in 1865 who introduced the concept of antisepsis in surgery. He introduced carbolic hand washes for surgical staff, carbolic acid baths for instruments and carbolic acid spray to reduce the level of germs in the air. In just three years Lister reduced the death rate in his patients from 47% to 15%.

Lister circa 1890 …

‘He was courteous to all, but sheltered himself behind a natural reserve which many attributed to shyness. A lover of home life and very simple in his tastes, he maintained to the last evidence of his Quaker upbringing by using ‘thou’ and ‘thee’ when writing familiarly to members of his family. No lover of money, he proportioned his fees to what he thought a patient could afford rather than what it was right or customary to charge, and he never, therefore, acquired wealth.’ His modest tomb probably reflects his Quaker beliefs.

You can read a superb biography here. And see some fascinating material from the Lister archives here, including his version of a PowerPoint presentation …

Then there is this medical gentleman …

The following text is taken from the book ‘The Good Grave Guide to
Hampstead Cemetery, Fortune Green’ by Marianne Colloms and Dick
Weindling.

One of the pioneers of radiology in the UK, Morgan’s work so badly damaged
his hands that he had to give it up. He joined the Cunard Line in 1897 as
Examining Officer based at Liverpool, with responsibility for all the emigrants and other passengers to America. In 1910 he became medical superintendent and by introducing better equipment and more highly trained personnel, he greatly improved the standard of medical care at sea. He worked for Cunard until he retired in 1926 and came to live in London. Appropriately, the only wreath at his funeral was of blue and white flowers in the shape of the ‘Blue Peter’, the flag flown by a ship leaving port.

The elegant tomb of James Wilson Pasha (1831-1906). ‘Pasha’ was a title given to a man of high rank or office in the Ottoman Empire and North Africa. It was the highest official title of honour, always used with a proper name, which it followed. It was given to soldiers and high civil officials, not to men of religion, and was purely personal and not hereditary …

Wilson was a British engineer who played a key role in Egypt’s 19th-century industrial expansion under Khedive Ismail. Trained in Britain, he entered Egyptian government service in the early 1860s and became chief engineer during a period of ambitious modernisation. Wilson was closely involved in the planning and management of large public works, most notably extensive sugar manufacturing enterprises central to Egypt’s economic strategy. His work combined engineering design with large-scale administration and logistics. Awarded the honorary title “Pasha,” he later returned to Britain, where he died in 1906, remembered for his contribution to Egypt’s industrial development.

The Frankau family memorial is in every sense a monumental piece of Art-Deco, Grade II listed by English Heritage in 1999 …

You can read more about this fascinating family and the memorial here and here.

Sometimes I read a memorial and am immediately committed to finding out more. This was one of them …

In close up …

John Kensit (1853–1902) was a prominent English Protestant campaigner and founder of the Protestant Truth Society. He became well known for his opposition to Anglo-Catholic ritualism within the Church of England, which he believed was bringing Catholic practices back into Protestant worship. His campaigns were often controversial and contributed to religious tensions in Liverpool.

John Kensit …

On 25 September 1902, he travelled to Birkenhead to address a Protestant meeting at Claughton Music Hall. As he and his companions left the meeting, they passed through a hostile crowd. A heavy metal file or chisel was thrown and struck Kensit above the left eye, causing a serious wound. He was taken to Liverpool Royal Infirmary.

Although he initially appeared to recover, he later developed pneumonia and blood poisoning. He died in hospital on 8 October 1902, aged 49. A man called John McKeever was accused of throwing the weapon and was charged with Kensit’s murder but was ultimately acquitted at the Liverpool Assizes, with the legal proceedings noting that Kensit’s death was directly triggered by the subsequent illness rather than the impact itself.

The Rider family grave …

As the topmost bronze plaque makes clear, Alice Lousia and William Robert Rider has this monument created after the death of their nineteen-year-old son, Walter Arthur Rider, in 1901. The father was interred here after his death in 1916, when he was 35, and the mother after her death in 1960 — 59 years after the death of the son.

The design of the grave has an Art Deco look but the copper lettering harks back to the earlier Art Nouveau style.

The grave of Captain Bertram Lewis Lima (1880-1919), a newspaper publisher, who became, under the Harmsworth publishing dynasty, Chairman of the Daily Mirror and the Sunday Pictorial

The inscription reads: To the glory of God and in loving memory of Capt. Sir Bertram Lewis Lima KBE. … And then to die so young and leave unfinished what he might achieve!

Unusual to see an exclamation mark on a memorial but, I think, very appropriate for a journalist!

I think this is probably a portrait from the newspaper archive …

The grave of another publisher, Sir Arthur Pearson (1866-1921) …

At the age of 18 he beat 3,000 other people to win a general knowledge quiz. The prize was a job at the journal Tit-Bits – a position that proved to be the start of a very lucrative publishing career …

Five years later in 1889 Pearson set up his own publishing company, which started out by publishing the highly successful Pearson’s Weekly

By 1900 he had launched the Daily Express and in 1904 he acquired The Standard and The Evening Standard.

Pearson soon put his new wealth towards charitable causes. In 1892 he established the Fresh Air Fund, which provided holidays and outings for hundreds of thousands of disadvantaged children, and in 1908 helped Robert Baden-Powell found the Boy Scout movement.

As seen by Spy for Vanity Fair in 1908 …

He had always had bad eyesight and in 1913 he learned that he would soon be completely blind. He told his wife Ethel ‘I will never be a blind man, I am going to be the blind man’. Pearson sold off his remaining publishing interests and began to work tirelessly for blind people. He worked initially as treasurer for the National Institute for the Blind (now the Royal National Institute of Blind People, or RNIB) and then as secretary for the National Relief Fund upon the outbreak of the First World War. In February 1915 he established a hostel for blinded servicemen called St Dunstan’s, a charity which still operates today as Blind Veterans UK.

Pearson around 1915 …

St Dunstan’s Hostel for Blinded Soldiers and Sailors offered a total programme of care and training. Every man who passed the reading test was given a Braille writing machine and men could choose to learn one of a number of different trades, from poultry farming to typing. There was also a wide range of sporting, social, and musical activities. When a patient left St Dunstan’s he was given a set of tools appropriate to the trade he had learnt, and a home and working premises were found for him. In 1917 an aftercare department was established to provide, when necessary, lifelong support.

In recognition of his services to blind people, Pearson was created a baronet in 1916 and appointed Knight Grand Cross of the Most Excellent Order of the British Empire (GBE) in 1917. He died aged just 55 after a freak accident at his Devonshire Street home on 9 December 1921.

I’m still sorting through the other memorial images I took and will write about them at a later date.

On leaving, I had to take a picture of this impressive building across the road from the cemetery entrance …

When I was growing up nearby in the 1960s it was a monumental mason’s premises, their skills obviously being demonstrated on the facade. It is now a rather splendid private residence and Grade II listed.

In other news.

Is this a record size for an avocado stone (pen alongside for scale) …

A mysterious happening. Yesterday afternoon I found a tin of chopped pork outside the entrance to our flats …

But by evening it had disappeared.

Things can get very exciting round here.

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What’s the point? The spike on London Bridge and other miscellany.

I couldn’t think of a unifying theme for the blog this week so it’s going to be a collection of items from my various wanderings and travels. I hope you find some of them interesting.

I thought I’d start with the pointy sculpture on the south side of London Bridge …

Created in 1999, apparently its proper name is the Southwark Needle but, strangely, there is no plaque explaining its significance.

This has led to speculation. My favourite theory is based on what you would encounter as you approached London Bridge from the south in earlier, more brutal centuries. This is Claes Von Visscher’s Panorama of London dated around 1600 …

If you look in the bottom right hand corner …

Beheading was a common form of execution at the time and reserved for higher-born individuals since it was swifter and less barbaric than hanging or burning at the stake. Heads also became available when individuals suffered the terrible death of being hanged, drawn and quartered (usually for high treason).

The first head to be displayed in this way was the Scottish patriot and rebel William Wallace in 1305 after he had been hanged, drawn and quartered at Smithfield. Between then and 1678 when the practice was stopped, there was a near-permanent display of decapitated heads grinning down from their spikes that pedestrians would have passed beneath. There was a plentiful supply, a visitor in 1592 counted 34 ‘heads of persons of distinction’.

So one theory was that the spike was a gruesome reference to those times.

In fact, the giant stone splinter is an architectural marker. According to the excellent Look up London blog, it’s actually about following the line of the base of the sculpture. This gestures across the River Thames to St Magnus the Martyr Church which originally marked the North entrance to Old London Bridge …

Spike on London Bridge

Nowadays you’re welcomed by a City of London dragon (and maybe a friendly pigeon) …

If you cross the bridge and visit St Magnus, you can stand on the main pedestrian entrance to the old bridge …

As I walked through it I couldn’t help thinking about the thousands and thousands who preceded me. Were they heading into the City to make their fortune perhaps? Or maybe leaving in bitter disappointment.

Back on the bridge, I love the views looking along the Thames, even on a miserable day like this …

Southwark Cathedral with The Strata Building with its three wind turbines in the background.

Some interesting street art …

The Shard reflecting the sky …

Walking north, a building in Moorgate overloaded with symbolism …

Since 1893 this golden lady has been standing at the top of 13-15 Moorgate facing the Bank of England …

Her image is repeated on the side of the building …

This was originally the London headquarters of the Metropolitan Life Assurance Society. The lady comes from its coat of arms (granted in 1885) which show her holding a skull (mortality) in her left hand with a serpent (signifying wisdom) entwined on her right.

The building also incorporates an attractive set of figures representing Prudence, Justice, Truth and Thrift – presumably all Virtues that the Insurer would like to be identified with …

An angel extinguishes a torch …

A common sculpture in Victorian cemeteries. A lit torch normally symbolises life and truth. When an angel turns the torch upside down or puts out the flame, it signifies that the mortal life of the person has come to an end. Could this representation above the door have been intended as an elegant reminder to employees as to why life insurance was important to their customers?

The recent horrendous heat was not nice but there were some nice skies for photography.

This building is on the north side of Finsbury Square …

Formerly Triton Court, it’s now known as the Alphabeta Building. Many years ago I would sometimes travel by train into the now demolished Broad Street Station. As the train approached the terminus I could see from my carriage what looked like a little boy standing on a large ball at the very top of the building. It looked like he was waving at me!

Well, he’s still there …

Now, however, I know the statue standing on top of the globe is Mercury (Hermes) the messenger and God of profitable trade. It’s by James Alexander Stevenson and was completed in the early 1900s. Though it would be impossible to see from the ground it’s apparently – as with all Stevenson’s work – signed with ‘Myrander’ a combination of his wife’s name (Myra) and his middle name (Alexander). Sweet. The renovated building is quite stunning inside as you can see here.

Feeling adventurous, I caught the single decker 214 bus and headed towards Highgate. Here are some of the sights I saw along the way.

Great rogue apostrophe …

On reaching Camden Town, scary tongue symptoms at the Chinese clinic …

Interesting architecture of The Black Cap pub …

The Palladium of Drag! Welcome to all!

Read lots more in this fascinating BBC report here.

As I strolled through Highgate Village …

The cakes look nice too.

The Angel pub with its headless angel …

…and interesting blue plaque …

I love this anecdote from Ray Davies of The Kinks:

“We used to meet up in the Angel. I remember when a woman collapsed outside the pub one night. Graham was a trained doctor and ran out to help. He tore off the woman’s blouse and said don’t worry I’m a doctor, and she said, no you’re not, you’re a comedian!”

Lots of choice at U Dessert …

Card in a shop window that made me laugh …

This also made me smile …

A plaque commemorating a stone step that you can no longer see …

A post box from the reign of King George V (1910-1936) …

I know it’s old but it seems to have taken quite a beating. They must have some fearsome weather up here.

I turned right into Waterlow Park to pay my respects to the wonderful philanthropist Sir Sydney Waterlow …

He is prepared for inclement weather with his umbrella, hat and overcoat. In his left hand he is passing over the keys to the park for everyone’s enjoyment. A ‘garden for the gardenless’ as he put it.

Everyone knows the story of Dick Whittington, the poor lad who against all the odds became Lord Mayor of London. Trudging back home up Highgate Hill, disillusioned after not succeeding in the City, he heard the bells of St Mary-le-Bow ring out with the message “Turn again, Whittington, thrice Lord Mayor of London!” Gathering up his loyal cat, he headed back the way he had come, and the rest is history. Or not.

Although the story is a total myth, it burned itself into folklore so deeply that the point on Highgate Hill where he supposedly heard the bells is commemorated this charming little memorial …

Carved on the side of the stone facing the road are the dates of Whittington’s Mayoralties, the three Kings he served under and the year he was Sheriff …

It also records that the stone was restored by W Hillier in 1935.

You can read a comprehensive history of the stone and the cat here on the London Remembers website. I recall the cat (made from Irish limestone) being added in 1964 since I walked up the hill almost every day on my way to school. The cat also lives on in the signage of the nearby Whittington Hospital and local pub …

Whilst waiting for the bus home, I encountered this informal tree advertising …

‘Tommy’ will get into trouble if he’s not careful.

Finally, last Sunday, there was a celebration of Carnival at the Barbican …

… and I had the great pleasure of sharing a lift with some of the lovely cast …

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A visit to the roof at New Change (and what I saw on the way home).

I noticed that the roof viewpoint at New Change was open again, so I thought I’d take a look. I think it’s still one of the best free viewing platforms in the City and here’s a selection of images.

Lots of ‘Oooohs’ ‘and Ahhhhs’ from visitors as the lift ascended and more and more of St Paul’s Cathedral became visible …

When you reach the top …

The St Mary-le-Bow dragon …

Looking slightly south west …

Looking south. In the distance you can see The Strata Building with its three wind turbines …

Image from Wilkimedia Commons …

In August 2010 it was awarded the 2010 Carbuncle Cup. This yearly award, organised by Building Design magazine, selects one building from a shortlist of 30, nominated by readers. It recognises “the ugliest building in the United Kingdom completed in the last 12 months”. I’m told that locals have nicknamed it The Eye of Sauron (as in Lord of the Rings).

Lady Justice atop The Old Bailey (the Central Criminal Court) …

Just beautiful …

Pictures at this location are a little more difficult now. I think the glass safety barrier has been raised to above head height so I had problems with reflections.

Back at ground level is Nail (2011) …

‘Both comic and provocative’, Nail is a 40 foot bronze sculpture, treated as the title implies, to appear like a giant rusty nail. On the one hand, it’s a nostalgic recollection of tools traditionally used by the construction industry. On the other, the rustiness, underscores the uselessness of this once useful object.

The artist, Gavin Turk, has been described as a ‘maverick’ and first gained some notoriety when he failed his MA having offered as his exhibition an English Heritage style blue plaque which read ‘Gavin Turk, sculptor, worked here’.

Of Nail he said …

Partly it’s a tribute to a tiny tool in a development that probably contains no nails at all, but it pins the bottom of the building down to the pavement. Also, I didn’t want to spoil the view and stop sightlines through to the cathedral. And it brings to mind Christ on the cross.

At the west end of Cheapside a stone plaque embedded on the floor commemorates that ‘THIS SITE MARKS THE ORIGINAL SITE OF BRITAIN’S OLDEST PRIVATE BANK FOUNDED 1672 AT THE SIGN OF THE GOLDEN BOTTLE’.

An accompanying stone also indicates the exact location of Hoare’s premises with a gold rectangle overlaid across a map of the garden space …

The dry weather has taken its toll …

You can read more on the excellent Look up London website.

The flag was out at the Goldsmith’s Hall building in Foster Lane …

I don’t know precisely how many times I have walked down Foster Lane (must be in the hundreds) but I only just noticed these elegant chain supports dated 1928 and bearing the Company’s coat of arms …

2027 is the Goldsmiths’ 700th anniversary and I was fascinated to read a story on their website as to how they are developing their ‘visual identity’ …

You can find more here.

Golden leopards’ heads at the Goldsmiths’ garden, actually the old churchyard of St John Zachary. The church itself was lost in the Great Fire of 1666 …

It’s a lovely little sunken garden with, sadly, the grass in poor shape as a result of the heatwave …

Across the road is Wax Chandlers’ Hall …

Surely the bluest door in the City …

… and the finest Unicorns …

I carried on via another old churchyard, that of St Mary Staining, also lost in 1666 …

… with its venerable London Plane tree …

An alley leads from the garden to Wood Street and the tower of St Alban’s …

Of medieval origin, it was rebuilt in 1634, destroyed in the Great Fire and rebuilt, this time to a Gothic design by Sir Christopher Wren. It was severely damaged by bombing during the Second World War and the ruins cleared, leaving only the tower.

Look closely at the foot of the tower and you will see a Bench Mark …

There are thousands around the UK indicating where the height above sea level has been calculated. Bench Marks were made on buildings which surveyors believed were unlikely to be redeveloped or demolished – they would be the ‘bench mark’ for the surrounding area. Nowadays, however, satellites can measure this distance to the nearest few millimetres and Bench Marks are no longer inspected for accuracy.

Look up and you’ll see a grotesque staring down at you …

Just around the corner, the lovely owners of 55 Gresham Street have brightened the area up with flowers …

Back on Wood Street, on the left is the old Police Station

Dating from 1966, it also housed the stables for the City Police horses. It’s now in the process of being redeveloped into a hotel.

The developers are Studio Moren, and I must say their plans look very exciting …

You can read more here.

Always fun to get home and find a film crew outside the door …

Stop Press! My image of last night’s eclipse using two pieces of paper and a pinhole …

Who needs Greenwich Observatory.

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